The Sounds Of Silence

On a Tiger Trail

2010-11-21T07:22:00.000-08:00

“Tiger near boat point”, blared a voice over the walkie-talkie. Wasting no time after the tip-off we set out on a rugged track, soft and slushy due to the heavy overnight downpour. With thumping hearts and crossed fingers we looked around with eyes wide open. As the driver parked the jeep in a clearing near the boat point, another one screeched to a halt on our right. A third jeep pulled up to our left. While shutterbugs aligned their cameras in position, others scoured the surroundings anxiously with eyes and ears on high alert. After a short while, a tiger walked into our line of sight. Being in close proximity to a big cat in the wild had our adrenaline pumping and our hearts thumping. But the joy was short-lived as the tiger disappeared into a thicket and hid from our peering eyes. The glimpse of the tiger filled the atmosphere with an eerie calm as we waited with bated breath for the tiger to reappear. Five tense and intense minutes passed then ten. The wait in stillness and silence made it seem much longer. The tiger probably sensed our intrusion into its space and stayed away from the glare of our eyes and lenses. Photographs later revealed that the tiger was watching and waiting for a suitable moment to set its foot forward. It emerged from the bushes and darted across the road oblivious to the fact that cameras captured its every move. Once the tiger crossed the road, it looked back to assess the situation and then disappeared without a trace.
We effervesced with excitement on sighting a tiger in the Rajiv Gandhi National Park (formerly and popularly known as the Nagarahole National Park). “This is a big tiger! ”, remarked Prem, our driver cum naturalist who has been driving into the forest twice a day for the past 22 years. In this time and age when survival of tigers in the wild is under threat, Prem’s remark was reassuring.
Before the tiger trail we were entertained to a private dance performance by a peacock. Photographs do no justice to the spectacle that unfolds when a peacock decides to wear its dancing shoes. The peacock turned a full circle flaunting every angle of its feathery outfit, seldom brought to public view. Although there were no peahens in sight, the solo performance left us bedazzled.
The well-scripted tale of our journey in jungle had an exciting twist prior to the peacock dance. A lone tusker mock charged our jeep. Unfazed by our constant picture shooting, the young tusker retreated. He probably did not perceive us as a potential threat. A herd of elephants led by a matriarch, playful and cherubic little ones snuggling between the senior members of the family and solitary tuskers displaying their might were few memorable elephantine encounters during our safari.
With swings, jumps, twists and turns, langurs, the ace trapeze artists of this forest entertained the onlookers with their stunts. Choreographed to perfection, the performance was flawless. While one hung from its tail, the other jumped from dizzying heights, the third leapt from one tree to another as we watched amazed and amused. Gaurs are perceived as being shy creatures and we were lucky to see them quenching their thirst at a water hole. While one member stayed on a higher ground to guard the herd from predators, the others enjoyed a dip in the water on a warm summer afternoon.
Blue jays, woodpeckers, peacocks, peahens, elephants, wild boars, giant squirrels, stripe-necked mongoose, langurs and bonnet macaques are regular sightings on safaris in the Nagarahole National Park. Gaurs, tigers, leopards and wild dogs are also fairly well sighted. Malabar trogons, ospreys, white-bellied fishing eagles and black bazas are some rare birds seen in the forest. Crocodiles, cormorants, painted storks, grey-headed fishing eagles, egrets and spoonbills are regular sightings on boat safaris.
The Nagarahole National Park gets its name from a meandering stream called Nagarahole (translates to “snake river”) that snakes its way through the forest and joins the river Kabini, a tributary of River Kaveri. River Vishanashini originates in Waynad and is called Kapila or Kabini as it flows through Karnataka. This moist deciduous forest has the rare distinction of being one of the few habitats where tigers, leopards and dholes (Indian wild dogs) - three aggressive predators co-exist. The tiger density is one of the highest in the country. Being at the apex of the food chain, a healthy tiger population is a fair indicator of the health of the forest.
Extending over 642 sq. km the Nagarahole National Park shares an unfenced common boundary with the Bandipur Tiger Reserve that stretches over 700 sq. km. The Nagarahole National Park and Bandipur National Park in Karnataka together with the Mudumalai National Park in Tamil Nadu and Waynad Wildlife Sanctuary in Kerala are part of the Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve home to several rare species of flora and fauna many of which are endemic to the region.
Six miles to the edge of the Nagarahole National Park is a century old property that once served as the hunting lodge of the Maharaja of Mysore. Colonial bungalows beside the quietly flowing Kabini, antiques and black and white photographs that are reminiscent of an era bygone add to the rustic charm of the lodge. The renovated bungalows are a part of the Kabini River Lodge, the flagship property of Jungle Lodges and Resorts, a government of Karnataka undertaking. For over a century, this lodge located in Kharapur has been playing host to the high and mighty. Kharapur and the neighbouring Kakanakote forests were sites for elephant trapping operations called kheddas. In old photographs that show their age, Maharajas, dukes and viceroys are seen posing with their spoils after hunting expeditions and kheddas.
Colonel John Wakefield was the master of the Kabini River Lodge for three decades since its inception in 1980. ‘Papa’ as he is affectionately called, was instrumental in the inception of Jungle Lodges and Resorts, successful endeavor in the government’s efforts to promote tourism. Papa’s jungle tales date back to days when he shot a tiger at the age of 9 and a leopard at 10. His rendezvous with the jungle continued for the rest of his life, 94 years in all. The man and his mission live on in Kharapur even as the world bereaves his departure to the heavenly abode in the summer of 2010. An entry in the guest book by Oscar winning Hollywood actress Goldie Hawn reads, “I have fallen unexpectedly in love, with Papa! Ofcourse, the wildlife too”.
The area under forest cover is shrinking by the day. At present only 3% of the total land mass of India is designated as protected forests. Despite the heavy inflow of tourists and hazards like forest fires, the forest officials have done well to maintain the sanctity of the Nagarahole National Park. The locals and naturalists laud the forest officials for the good maintenance of the park. During the hot summer months, one is spoilt for choice when it comes to wildlife sighting by the River Kabini. Birds add colour to the crystal clear waters. Herbivores are abundant. Carnivores are sighted often enough to lure the visitors to come back for another visit.

Quick Facts:

Accolades:
In 1995, the Tattlers Travel Guide rated Kabini River Lodge as one of the top five wildlife resorts in the world.
In 1997-98, Jungle Lodges and Resorts won the prestigious National Tourism Award for the best-maintained eco-friendly tourism project of India.
In 2008, CNBC Awaaz Travel Awards conferred Kabini River Lodge with the award for the “Site with the best Eco-tourism Practices”.

Location:
The Kabini River Lodge is situated off the Mysore-Mananthavadi Road. It is located in the Kharapur village of the Heggadadevana Kote (H.D. Kote) taluk of the Mysore district of Karnataka.

Getting There:
By Road: It is a pleasurable drive from Bangalore and Mysore. Kabini River Lodge is at a distance of about 210 Kms from Bangalore and 80 Kms from Mysore. The roads are in good condition.

By Train: Mysore is the nearest railhead. You can hire a taxi for a one-way drop from Mysore.

Season:
Kabini River Lodge is an all-year tourist destination. March through May is the best season for wildlife sighting. July though September is the rainy season when the forest is lush and the river is exuberant. The weather is at its best in the months of December and January.

Tariff:
Accommodation is available in the tented cottages, cottages and rooms in bungalows. The current rate of the tented cottage is Rs 3500/-, room is Rs 4250/-, cottage is Rs 5000/- and Maharaja cottage is Rs 5500/-. The rates mentioned are per person per day on a twin-sharing basis. The package includes of breakfast, lunch and dinner, accommodation, coracle rides in the river,boat safari and safaris in the Rajiv Gandhi National Park.

For more information log on to www.junglelodges.com

Reviving Local Traditions

2010-09-19T00:32:00.000-07:00

When we stepped out of the Mangalore Central Railway Station without an umbrella, it was obvious that we were tourists. While visitors crowded under a shelter, locals used their rain gear and walked out, unperturbed by the heavy downpour. The unrelenting showers seemed to be a way of life here. Motorists clad in ankle length raincoats, school children holding umbrellas, auto rickshaws with tarpaulin covers – everyone seemed to have a way to work around the rain. It was business as usual. As we drove past rain drenched roads, water clogged paddy fields and houses with sloping clay tiled roofs we got a sense of what the monsoons are like in Mangalore.
From Mangalore City we headed to Pilikula Nisargadhama, a refreshing man made oasis in the concrete desert of urbanization. In the local language Tulu, 'Pili' means tiger and 'kula' means pond. According to received wisdom, this area was once home to free roaming tigers that frequented a watering hole in the vicinity and hence the name. If the legend is to be believed, then deforestation and destruction must have driven tigers out of their den and turned Pilikula into a barren land devoid of trees. However, a concerted effort by the Dakshina Kannada District Administration has brought the greens back to Pilikula and fostered its development as an eco-educational and tourism project. Pilikula Nisargadhama is a commendable initiative to revive and showcase the ancient customs, traditions, heritage, flora and fauna of Dakshina Kannada. Spread across 370 acres, Pilikula Nisargadhama currently comprises of a biological park, an artisan village, a heritage village, a golf course, an amusement park, a science center, a tourist home, a lake garden and an arboretum.

Dr. Shivaram Karanth Biological Park
Since its inception in 2001, the Pilikula Biological Park has been doing its bit towards the conservation and breeding of flora and fauna endemic to the Western Ghats. Spread across 150 acres, this well maintained Biological Park shelters several species of birds and animals some of which are endangered. The park currently has a snake house with many different snakes including King Cobras, Pythons, Rat snakes, Russell's vipers and Trinket snakes. Apart from 65 species of free ranging birds, there are animals like tigers, lions, leopards, mouse deer, sloth bears, crocodiles, porcupines, wild boars and elephants within enclosures that resemble their natural habitat. The park is soon going to have a King Cobra breeding center commisioned by the Central Zoo Authority.

Pilikula Lake
The peaceful Pilikula Lake and its surrounding gardens attract a large number of visitors. Desilting and restoration efforts have been undertaken to breathe life into the lake. Fresh water fish, ducks and geese have been introduced into the lake. Motor boats and pedal boats are available at the boating point. Cutting across lush lawns and landscaped gardens around the lake are jogging tracks and walking paths.

Heritage Village
The Heritage Village comprising of coconut and areca plantations, a Kambala race track, a Guthu Mane and a Nagabana recreates the aesthetics of a rural setting in Dakshina Kannada. At the heart of the village stands a replica of a typical Guthu Mane (the traditional house of the coastal landlords) resplendent with carved pillars and ceilings. Kambala is an age old folk sport of buffalo racing. The Nethravathi-Phalguni race track constructed in front of the Guthu Mane plays host to the annual Jodekare Kambala event. Nagabana is the serpent shrine in the vicinity of the Guthu Mane where the snake God is worshiped

Artisan Village
The artisan village is an interesting concept where master craftsmen reside in houses dedicated to a particular traditional art. Apart from training those who are interested in acquiring a particular skill the artisans make products which are marketed by the Pilikula Nisargadhama Society. Weaving, black smithy, pottery making, cane and bamboo works, making beaten rice, wood and stone carving and oil extraction are some skills demostrated by the artisans.Visitors can watch the artisans at work and also interact with them. The Artisan Village is an effort to preserve and promote the age old vocations of the people of Dakshina Kannada.

Gurupura Nisargadhama Resort
Perched atop a hillock overlooking the quiet flowing Gurupura River, coconut groves and acacia plantations is the Gurupura Nisargadhama Resort. The resort is the latest offering of Jungle Lodges and Resorts, a government of Karnataka undertaking. The property offers scintillating views of the properous river bank and hills looming over the lush green plains. Day trippers can stop by at the resort for a sumptous meal with Mangalorean delicacies.

Arboretum
The Western Ghats are recognized as one of the biodiversity hot spots in the world is home to several rare plants. With over 60,000 saplings, the arboretum in Pilikula is a treasure trove of flora, many of which are endemic to the Western Ghats. Visitors can walk along the 3 Km long pathway to get a closer look at the varieties of trees and shrubs.

Among other things Pilikula stands out as a human effort to give a reprive to nature. The initiative of the Pilikula Nisargadhama Society to showcase the rich cultural heritage and natural wealth of Dakshina Kannada district is commendable. Be it just a quick visit to this green paradise or a holiday to unwind in the nature's lap, Pilikula is great place to acquaint with nature and understand the importance of saving it for another day.

Getting there:
Mangalore is well connected to all major cities of Karnataka by buses and trains. Pilikula is 15 Km from Mangalore City. Buses ply regularly between Pilikula and Mangalore City.

This article was published in Deccan Herald on the 3rd of August 2010. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.deccanherald.com/content/85547/reviving-local-traditions.html

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Melting Pot

2010-07-24T23:31:00.000-07:00

Known as the Queen of the Arabian Sea, Kochi (formerly Cochin) is an important seaport on the west coast of India. Traders sailed across seas to reach these wealth-laden shores famous for exotic spices, ivory, peacocks and silk. The formation of a natural port at Cochin is attributed to a flash flood that washed away land in the year 1341.The flood heralded Cochin’s rise as a trade hub and triggered the fall of Kodangallur (known variously as Craganore, Shinkli and Muzuris), a port that had beckoned explorers and travelers for eons. The flooding waters deposited silt at Kodangallur ‘s harbour and the port became too narrow for incoming ships. While Cochin thrived, Kodangallur’s importance diminished rapidly.
Cochin was once a seat of power and a stage for fiery battles. Its fabric transformed as the baton of power changed hands. Lured by its riches, the Portuguese, the Dutch, the Jews, the British, the Arabs and the Chinese arrived and settled in Cochin. Epithets like “Mini England”, “Homely Holland” and “Little Lisbon” speak of its heydays in times of the British, Dutch and Portuguese. Cochin is the commercial capital of Kerala and its municipality comprises of Ernakulam, Fort Kochi and Mattancherry.
The 20-minute ride on a government ferry from Ernakulam to Fort Kochi was my passage to a land that is a stockpile of history. As the boat drifted away from the Ernakulam Boat Jetty majestic old buildings standing on the water's edge presented a preview of the cocoon called Fort Kochi. Life ambles at its own pace here and each street flaunts a different facet of its diversity. I chose to explore Fort Kochi on foot resisting my temptation to rent a bicycle or hire a rickshaw. Constant pit stops to refuel at roadside tender coconut stalls and cafes kept me going despite the oppressive heat and the saline soaked wind. I walked past brightly coloured houses reminiscent of different eras.
My first stop was at the eye-catching row of cheenavalas or the Chinese fishing nets. The huge fixed fishing nets, believed to be Chinese in origin are installed on the land and operated by teams of about six men. After each physically taxing fishing exercise, the fishermen return to their makeshift shack to smoke beedis and relax. “You buy, we fry”, read the sign boards outside shops where the fresh catch is cooked instantly. These imposing 10m high fishing implements with an outstretched net on one side and stone suspensions on the other end are a popular tourist attraction and have become an icon of Fort Kochi.
From the fishing nets I walked ahead to St. Francis Church, the oldest European Church in India. It was built by the Portuguese who made their way into India following Vasco da Gama’s discovery of a new route from Europe. Commanding a troop of 170 men in three eastbound ships from Lisbon, navigator and explorer Vasco da Gama, set sail to India and reached the town of Calicut in 1498. He however failed to impress the ruler of Calicut (Samoothari or Zamorin) to initiate trade with Portugal. Vasco was followed by Pedro Alvarez Cabral who won the Zamorin’s trust and was allowed to set up a factory in Calicut. But clashes with the Moors drove Cabral to the safer shores of Cochin. The Portuguese became allies of the Raja of Cochin and subsequently helped him in fighting the Zamorin. As a goodwill gesture, the Raja permitted the Portuguese to build a fort. Square in shape with a bastion in each corner, the fort was made of coconut logs fastened by iron bands. The Fort was named Fort Manuel (or Manuelkotta) after the king of Portugal. It laid the foundation for the Portuguese dominance in the years to follow. Within the confines of the timber fort was a flourishing Portuguese settlement comprising of factories, a palace, educational institutions and places of worship.
As the Portuguese supremacy ebbed, the control of the Dutch strengthened. The oriental style Dutch palace was originally built by the Portuguese and later renovated by the Dutch. European and indigenous architecture styles blend beautifully in this two-storeyed structure. The central courtyard enshrines Goddess Pazhayannur Bhagavathi, the tutelary deity of the Cochin Royal Family. The upper floor consisting of a coronation hall, bedchamber, a ladies chamber and a dining hall, now serves a beautiful museum. Murals depicting scenes from the Ramayana and puranic legends adorn the walls of the palace. Like the Portuguese, the Dutch left lasting signatures on Cochin. The Bolgatty Palace that has been converted to a heritage hotel and the Bastion Bungalow that has been declared as a protected monument are few streaks of the Dutch lavishness in Cochin.
A rickshaw driver who doubled up as a tour guide took me to the Jew Town in the neighboring settlement of Mattancherry. We went past an array of shops that were resplendent with traditional Indian curios and antiques. Mattancherry’s Jew Town is spread around the Paradesi Synagogue (also known as the Cochin Synagogue). Constructed in 1568, it is currently the only functioning synagogue in Kerala. Paintings inside the synagogue trace the history of the Jews in Kerala. It is said that the first Jews came en masse to Craganore around 70 A.D to avoid religious prosecution. While one painting depicts the Raja of Craganore welcoming the Jews, another shows Joseph Rabban receiving copper plates from the Raja. The copper plates spelled out the rights and privileges of the Jewish community. The destruction of Craganore by the Moors led to the displacement of the Jews who then settled in Cochin. Paintings also depict the Maharaja of Travancore presenting a golden crown to the Torah in 1805 and the last Maharaja addressing his Jewish subjects in 1949.
Fort Kochi is a melting pot of myriad races and religions. Stones, bricks and wooden reinforcements in bungalows, heritage hotels and monuments speak volumes of eras bygone. Everything, from its name to its people spawn stories that are woven over several hundreds of years. Foreign influences, interspersed in a truly Indian setting make for an interesting walk down memory lane. Fort Kochi is a mélange of different languages, cultures and customs. The past blends seamlessly with the present, presenting an enticing treat to the discerning eye

This article was published in Deccan Herald on the 25th of July 2010. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.deccanherald.com/content/83544/melting-pot.html

Where Time Stands Still

2010-07-24T22:51:00.000-07:00

I was in the land of fish and chips; in the land of lanky coconut trees and pristine backwaters. I was in the land where the science of Ayurveda has transcended time; in the land where this ancient practice is a prided legacy. I was in God’s own country to experience the healing touch of Ayurveda.
At the foothills of the Western Ghats is the unassuming town of Palakkad, popularly known as the granary of Kerala. Amidst the green cover and prosperous paddy is Kairali, an Ayurvedic Health Resort. Spread across 50 acres of luxuriant greenery, Kairali is an oasis of calm and a blissful retreat from the cacophony of our cities. Being a premier health resort, Kairali was ranked among the top 50 wellness Meccas in the world by National Geographic Traveler in 2008.
Thirty aesthetic cottages named after Indian zodiac signs dot the expanse of the resort’s sprawling lawns. Aswathi, Karthika, Bharani, Makariyam, Punartham, Avittam and Uthradam are a few jewels in the tiara of this resort. The cottages are designed to conform to Vaastu Shastra and are unique in name, style and decor. Bricks and stones used in the construction of each cottage are visibly different from the other. The red oxide coating on the floor acts as a natural coolant. The divine Valambari Conch (Turbinella pyrum) is placed in every cottage to emanate positive vibrations. A cascading rivulet running by the side of the cottages creates a harmonious atmosphere.
Designed by renowned horticulturist and Padma Bhushan awardee Dr. G.S. Randhawa Kairali’s landscape strikes a chord with nature. There are about 600 coconut trees that announce their presence by sending their sun dried leaves down to earth. Plants with therapeutic value are interspersed between trees of leak, mango, guava, pine and coconut. Medicinal plants are grown in the herbal garden. Blooms of jasmine, hibiscus and anthurium adorn the stone walkways. The coconut trees are the only high-rises here and samrani is the room freshener.
It’s back to basics at Kairali. The day begins with yoga. The food served is vegetarian. Fruits and vegetables are homegrown. Warm herbal water is favored over bottled water. Fresh juices are in and iced colas are out. Until it becomes a routine, the guests are cajoled to unwind while being pampered with good food and great hospitality.
Chasing butterflies, reading by the poolside, watching a kingfisher pick up its meal from the gurgling water and relaxing on an old rocking chair. For a city-dweller like me, these simple pleasures are hard to come by. Strolling in the 10-acre organic garden was an experience in itself. Within a few feet from the each other were plants of pineapple, chili, tomato, bitter gourd, pumpkin, ladies finger, eggplant, banana, snake gourd and a lot more. As we were taken on a tour of the garden we were told that these were fruits of labor and no chemicals went into making them look fresh and healthy.
Given that vegetables harvested across the road make it to our plates, it comes as no surprise that food was delectable. Apart from the food itself, the attention to detail at the Ayurvedic canteen was impressive. Everything from the juice, to the salad to the arrangement of napkins on the table was different for every meal. The food was delicious and the service was delightful.
The outdoor yoga session was a unique experience. This was the first time I was doing to the suryanamaskara (sun salutation) with the sun in my line of sight. I joined Europeans and Americans at the yoga session and we spent an hour together performing various asanas (exercises) and chanting sholkas. After stretching and bending we were treated to an amazing concoction of lime and mint. It was worth the effort of pulling myself out of bed early in the morning!
Through traditional techniques of Ayurveda qualified doctors administer treatments to cure ailments and relieve stress. The vivacious chief doctor, Dr. T. R. Chandrashekaran has been Ayurvedic practitioner for over four decades. Seasoned masseurs use their deft touch and the power of herbs and traditional oils alleviate stress.
Kairali is all about good health and happiness. As the warm oil was rubbed over my body, my muscles loosened and relaxed. I realized that a good massage is a great treat for an over-worked body. A steam bath followed the massage and I rocked myself to sleep on a hammock listening to birdsongs and gazing at the sky above. Indulging massages followed by delicious meals and an inviting cozy bed. It was blissful to say the least.
I was told that Panchakarma (a five-fold procedure for cleansing the body) and detoxification and rejuvenation therapies are the most common treatments opted by visitors. The guests are encouraged to practice yoga and meditation in the natural setting that compliments the holistic treatment. Dhara, Abhyangam, Pizhichil, Navarakizhi and Nasyam are a few of many of Ayurvedic treatments on offer. The doctor prescribes a special diet for guests undergoing treatment.
Every aspect of the resort from the sounds one hears and the water one drinks to the activities one indulges in, aim at imbibing the positive energy exuded by the elements of nature. Butterflies flit from leaf to flower with boundless joy. Birds wait eagerly to snatch a catch from water while fish dart across the stream. Lying in the lap of nature amidst the sound of falling water, the golden glow of the sun’s rays, the hiss of the wind and the kiss of the breeze is the perfect setting to switch off your mind and derail its train of endless thoughts.

Quick Facts:

Getting there: Palakkad is less than two hours away from the Coimbatore and Cochin airports.
Palakkad has a railway station and good road and rail links with all major cities.

Season: Kairali Ayurvedic Resort has visitors all year through. The weather is at its best between November and February. The summer months of March, April and May can be oppressive but the trees act as protective umbrellas and the weather is tolerable. June, July and August is the time to visit if you want to experience the monsoons in Kerala.

Accommodation: Deluxe, Classic, Royal and the exclusive Maharaja suites are the four classifications of the 30 cottages at the Kairali Ayurvedic Resort.

Tariff:
Leisure packages: Rs. 2999/- per person per night on a double occupancy basis.
Treatment packages: Rs. 35,000/- (taxes extra) onwards for 7-nights/8-days person on a double occupancy basis.
This package includes accommodation in a Deluxe Villa, one Ayurvedic treatment per day, all meals (breakfast, lunch and dinner), complimentary yoga and meditation sessions, consultation with the Ayurvedic doctor, one lifestyle evaluation session and the use of the resort’s facilities.
For more details log on to www.kairali.com

This article was published in The Hindu on the 25th of July 2010. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.hindu.com/mag/2010/07/25/stories/2010072550330800.htm

Fighting in Harmony

2010-07-13T21:57:00.000-07:00

“Watching Bruce Lee movies with my father, I dreamt of learning martial arts someday”, recounts Vandana Rao as she traces her journey into the world of punches and kicks. Vandana was athletic as a child and has an outstanding academic record completing her Masters in Mass Communication and Journalism with a gold medal. She went with the flow of life and her dreams were safely tucked away until six months after her daughter’s birth when she started taking lessons in karate. Vandana is now a third degree black belt in the Korean martial art Tang Soo Do.
“With my stressful job my body began to crack up. Nothing aligns your priorities like adversity”, says Vandana who chose to give up her job in the Silicon Valley to be a stay-at-home mom. “I learnt about a martial arts school in my neighborhood from a television show. I enrolled at the school and was part of the same show for seven years to follow”, she says with a broad smile. Vandana trained at the First Tang Soo Do of Fremont, California under Master David Bell. Here she developed a deep passion for Tang Soo Do and went on to win medals at the Regional and World Tang Soo Do Championship held in Florida, USA. “Martial arts also gave me avenues to explore my degree in media and communication”, she says mentioning her involvement in the production of the television show, website development and working on the school’s newsletter. After moving to Bangalore Vandana established The Healing Arts Centre, where she imparts training in Chi Kung (a Chinese meditative healing art) and Yoga apart from Tang Soo Do.
“Martial Arts is not about violence and physical assault”, says Vandana clarifying that she does not run a fight club or encourage aggression. “Tang Soo Do is a peaceful and defensive martial art. We first learn how to block and then learn to counter attack. Patience is the key”, she adds. While Tang Soo Do is a high-energy kick intensive martial art involving free sparing, combination drills, forms and weapons, Chi Kung is a meditative practice that requires tremendous discipline. “Tang Soo Do, Yoga and Chi Kung may have visual differences but the essential principles and energy centers are the same. Breathing is the cornerstone of all three arts. They come from three different countries but take you to the same place. It’s all about striking a balance between the mind, body and spirit,” explains Vandana.
Vandana currently trains about 50 students ranging from the age of 5 to 45. The batches comprise of people from mixed age groups, genders and levels of physical fitness. While some have taken up the arts for weight loss others are there to fight health ailments like high blood pressure and cholesterol. Martial arts and yoga have helped to bring discipline in children and beat stress in adults. While some have been able to cut down on nicotine, others have been able to find a balance between work and home. “Apart from physical fitness and mental relaxation it helps people accept their body and develop a positive outlook to life. I am trying to create awareness about a way of life and enhance character development through martial arts”, says Vandana.
Vandana is diving deeper into the art even as she tries to demystify its complexity and beauty to her students. The last time Master Bell was in Bangalore, he left her with plenty of homework. Vandana is expanding her knowledge through books, DVDs and interaction with her Master through Skype. The stick, the knife, the sai and the sword are the four weapons she is currently working with. She is learning various Chi Kung patterns even as she is creatively improvising on Yoga postures.
She dared to dream and life presented her opportunities to pursue her passion. Twelve years into martial arts Vandana is as fit as a fiddle. She effortlessly juggles her role as a daughter, a mother, a wife, a teacher and a student. Following in her footsteps is her daughter waiting to turn twelve this year, so that she can appear for the exam to secure her black belt.

For more information log on to http://www.bangaloretangsoodo.com/

This article was published in The Hindu, Bangalore edition on the 14th of July 2010. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.hindu.com/mp/2010/07/14/stories/2010071450370400.htm

Railcar's Last Stop

2010-07-05T22:03:00.000-07:00

A one-bogie train stationed at the periphery of the bustling Bangarpet Railway Station caught my attention. A closer look revealed that it was a railbus, a unique hybrid that combines the engineering of a bus with the comfort of a rail coach. Railbuses reduce the overhead of running trains on lines with low passenger traffic. This is the only operational railbus in Karnataka and plies on the branch-line between Bangarpet and Kolar.
Intrigued by this rather small “train”, I embarked on a short but sweet 18 Km journey from the Bangarpet junction. The railbus chugged along slowly, even stopping for a person who missed it at the station. For most passengers this 35-minute rail journey is a daily routine, but for me it was an enjoyable joyride. The charming colonial railway station of Kolar warmed up to welcome the railbus yet again. A few decades ago, Kolar was an important station but the number of passengers and trains reduced drastically over the years. There was a time when the station was operating only for the railbus.
Compact in design, the Bangarpet-Kolar broad gauge railbus was manufactured by Bharat Earth Movers Limited (BEML) in 1997. It is a self-powered four-wheeled locomotive with driving cabs at both ends and controls for bidirectional operation. The 72-seater railbus is a boon for about 65 office workers who commute from Bangalore to Kolar by train everyday. A loco pilot who is accompanied by an assistant loco pilot operates the railbus, which is like a chartered service for the regulars. A single track connects the Bangarpet and Kolar stations and the “one train only token system” is used to control rail traffic on this line. A baton with the two station names etched on it authorizes a single train to pass through. The arrival and departure of the railbus from Bangarpet are linked to the timings of the connecting trains to and from Bangalore.

Railcars and railbuses feature among the unique locomotives in the ranks of the Indian Railways that has a wide variety of trains for transporting freight and passengers across the country. Even though they were not profitable, railcars were operated in some routes for the benefit of the people. Loyal passengers developed a personal connection with these locomotives and their withdrawal was strongly resisted. While the Bangarpet-Kolar railbus is still in operation, the others have made their way into museums and linger on as a fading memory.

Guntakal-Mysore Railcar
In the 1970s, a meter gauge diesel railcar built at the Integral Coach Factory (Madras) operated between Guntakal and Mysore. The railcar consisted of two self powered cabs that were connected electrically. The loco pilots could control the power and brake from any one of the cabs. While one cab had both first-class and second-class accommodation, the other had only second-class accommodation. The engine and other transmission units were under slung making it compact. The distance covered by the railcar reduced over time and it operated between Mysore and Nanjangud railway stations before it was eventually decommissioned.

Yelahanka-Bangarpet Railcar“There was a narrow gauge railway line between Bangarpet and Bangalore. The track reached the front of the present day Bangalore City Railway Station, the area that now serves as the parking lot”, said one of the old timers of the Indian Railways. “This track was laid during the time of the Wodeyars”, he added. Trains propelled by steam engines plied on this track, which traversed a route through Yelahanka, Kodigenahalli, Yeshwanthpur and Malleshwaram before reaching Bangalore City. The narrow gauge track between Bangalore City and Yeshwanthpur railway stations was first removed and later the track connecting Yeshwanthpur and Yelahanka was done away with. The narrow gauge track between Yelahanka and Bangarpet continued to exist although no trains were plying on this stretch. T. A. Pai, the then Union Minister for Railways introduced a railcar in the Yelahanka-Bangarpet section that was lying idle for a while.
The four-coach narrow gauge railcar built at the Central Workshop had one power cab and three trailing cabs. There were two sets of railcar rakes that operated on the single track and crossed over at the Chintamani Railway Station. The railcar passed through Devanahalli, Nandi, Chikaballapur, Sidlaghatta, Chintamani and Kolar en route to Bangarpet. Vegetable vendors from various taluks of the Kolar district benefited from the operation of this railcar. As a part of the Uniguage Policy introduced during the term of Railway Minister C. K. Jaffer Sheriff, most of the different gauges of tracks were converted into broad gauge. Under this policy the Yelahanka-Chikballapur track was converted to broad gauge following which the railcar was withdrawn.

Shimoga-Thalaguppa Railcar
The meter gauge railway track between the town of Shimoga and Thalaguppa was laid by the British way back in 1938. In 1939, Mirza Ismail took the maiden journey on this line to visit the town of Sagar. This rail link provided access to Jog Falls, which is just 12 Kms from the village of Thalaguppa. Famous personalities like Krishnaraja Wodeyar, Jayachamarajendra Wodeyar, Sir M. Vishveshwariah, Lal Bahadur Shastri and Morarji Desai used this line to reach the spectacular Jog Falls. Goods trains that operated on this stretch transported logs that were used as fuel in the furnaces of the Vishveshwariah Iron and Steel Plant at Bhadravathi and for making wooden sleepers. With the passage of time, the number of commuters diminished and the passenger trains between Shimoga and Thalaguppa reduced from three to one.
In the 1990s, the Bangalore-Shimoga track was converted to broad gauge. After the gauge conversion, the narrow gauge railcar that was formerly used in the Yelahanka-Bangarpet stretch was converted to meter gauge and operated between Shimoga and Thalaguppa. The rustic 2-bogie railcar could seat 52 passengers and took 3 hours and 45 minutes to cover a distance of 82 Kms. In order to cut costs, gatemen manning level crossings along the route were removed. A mobile gateman on board the railcar would get off at every crossing to close the gates. A wooden turntable was used to reverse the railcar at the terminals. The Shimoga-Thalaguppa railcar was in operation until 2007.

This article was published in Deccan Herald on the 5th of July 2010. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.deccanherald.com/content/79450/railcars-last-stop.html

On a Chocolate High

2010-06-29T22:32:00.000-07:00

“During my job at the Taj pastry kitchen, I was given a mound of chocolates to wrap. This was my first touch and feel of chocolate. Back then, I did not know that I would be doing this for the rest of my life”, says renowned chocolatier Chenddyna Schae. Chenddyna launched Jus’ Trufs to create a brand for her exclusive chocolates. From a small beginning with a Diwali stall at the Bombay Store to having big corporates as clients, Jus’ Trufs has come a long way since its inception in 2001. Opting out of mass production, Chenddyna carved a niche for herself by customizing chocolates to meet the need of each client. “I wanted Jus’ Trufs to be a corporate gifting company and not just another producer of homemade chocolates”, she says.
Chenddyna’s chocolaty journey began way back in the eighties when she was a fresh hotel management graduate. “Being an independent woman, I found it hard to take orders. I gave up my job and began to work from my home kitchen”, she says. Making burgers, pizzas and cakes while in Manipal and making chocolates after she moved to Mumbai, Chenddyna had a modest beginning as a self-made entrepreneur. She then took a break from commercial chocolate making to devote her time to her children and family. After relocating to Bangalore, she launched Jus’ Trufs and was back to business after a 10-year hiatus.
In the nascent stages of her venture, Chenddyna’s kitchen was her workplace and her domestic help assisted her in chocolate making. She now has a dedicated team working to make chocolates and a factory that can produce up to 100 kilograms of chocolates per day. There were just four varieties initially, but now Chenddyna finds it hard to put a number on the flavors on offer.
Jus’ Trufs is known for its soft-centered truffles but it offers a lot more than just truffles.Local flavours like cinnamon, elaichi, chai masala and coconut are a huge hit with foreigners who savor the taste of India in the chocolates. Innovative creations like edible chocolate photo frames, chocolate roses and chocolate logs add variety to the collection. Photographs, logos, invites and messages for any occasion can be printed on these custom made chocolates. “There is immense attention to detail. Maintaining personal contact with clients is sometimes challenging but essential if we need to understand their specific requirements”, says Chenddyna talking about the care taken to process each order.
The ingredients that go into making various types of chocolates are sourced from the far corners of the world. “Raw chocolate is imported from Belgium and coco beans are sourced from Ghana. We have other raw materials coming from Singapore, Madagascar and Sao Thome. Blending these ingredients is our secret recipe”, says Chenddyna. The colours and flavours of the season influence the presentation of the chocolates. Different moulds and wrappers are brought out for special occasions like Valentines Day, Christmas, Diwali, Rakhi, Father’s Day and Easter. To keep up with the spirit of the ongoing football frenzy Jus’ Trufs has introduced chocolates that resemble footballs.
Jus’ Trufs provides end-to-end solutions in designing chocolates and hampers that are delivered to different parts of India and abroad. The packaging is customized for each delivery depending on the distance and weather conditions. Catering to an exclusive clientele, the orders range from extravagant wedding spreads to huge corporate orders. While some chocolates are bought for a reason, the others are for the season and the rest are for sheer indulgence in rich chocolate that makes people high and happy.

Retail Outlets: Jus’ Trufs have their counters at Hypercity in Whitefield, Columbia Asia Hospital, Crossword on Residency Road, Infinitea on Cunnigham Road, Chocoworld in Jayanagar and at the International terminal of the BIAL.

For more details log on to http://www.justrufs.com/.

This article was published in The Hindu, Bangalore edition on the 30th of June 2010. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/Food/article492097.ece

Voice of the Waves

2010-06-19T22:58:00.000-07:00

The sun hinted signs of retreating. Its golden rays gleamed across the water. The clock struck five and within minutes the splendour of the surroundings was concealed in a veil of darkness. A pathway hewn between a cluster of trees led us to a resort about which we had heard rave reviews. Beyond the lanky trees is a beautiful beach we were told. Our cottage was just a few meters away from the crescent shaped Radhanagar Beach, one among the most famed beaches of Asia. We were in Havelock, one of the most popular islands for tourism in the Andamans.
Barefoot is a resort by the sea. Cobbled pathways lead to cottages that have donned the colours of the earth. There are ten fan-cooled Nicobari cottages, eight air-conditioned Andaman villas and an exclusive Nicobari suite. Locally available natural materials like cane, bamboo and dried leaves are extensively used in the construction. Cradled under a canopy of trees, these cottages with warm lighting, thatched roofs, wooden floors and sunlit bathrooms strike a chord with nature. There is a conscious effort to optimize the use of natural resources and integrate with the environment in a symbiotic manner. Walking into nature’s arms was a pleasure and an experience to treasure.
Recipes from around the world amidst aromas that are truly Indian have made their way into the kitchen at Barefoot. We treated ourselves to a platter of mouth-watering delicacies. The dishes ranged from chocolate pancakes and idlis for breakfast to pasta and parathas for lunch followed by gulab jamuns and chocolate truffle for dessert. Visitors can hang up their feet at the lounge bar and enjoy a drink.
While we were at the restaurant one afternoon, the clonk of a bell cracked the silence. The tingle heralded the arrival of Rajan and all eyes turned in his direction. Rajan, a 60-year-old elephant has made Havelock his home.Adopted by Barefoot, Rajan has become an icon of the resort. He has a long-standing relationship with his mahout with whom he shares an intimate bond. Rajan is taken into the forest during the day and spends the night at the resort. Among other things, that make this gentle giant special is his ability to swim. He loves to wade into the water and paddle in the sea. Visitors can dive and snorkel with Rajan and have their photograph clicked underwater.
Lured by the exciting outdoors offered by Barefoot Adventures, we chalked out a plan for our stay at Havelock. Snorkeling, scuba diving, joy fishing, island camping, finding Rajan in the forest, diving with Rajan, kayaking and hiking in the nearby hills were some of the activities on offer. There are many good spots for snorkeling and scuba diving around Havelock. While scuba diving is for experts, snorkeling is for novices. With no prior experience, scuba diving would have been a tough proposition so we chose to explore the waters of the Andaman Sea with our snorkels.
Aboard a dungi (a small motorboat) loaded with snorkels, fins, tender coconuts and biscuits we headed out to Elephant Beach, the first stop for the day. Elephant Beach seemed like a piece of heaven on earth with boats anchored to the shore and tree stumps flaunting artistic poses against the backdrop of the blue-green sea. Floating on the surface of the water and breathing through the snorkel we marveled at the world that lies beneath. Bold and beautiful corals painted the ocean bed with a riot of colours.The silent orchestra of the depths of the ocean was mind blowing. Schools of fish seemed to be going about their business hastily. I watched in awe, as the fish pranced around the colourful corals gleefully. Humphead parrotfish, clown fish, cleaner wrasse, sea stars were a few that we could identify from the many that crossed our path. We were told that these waters are home to a colossal number of species of fish including exotic ones like manta rays, pacific lionfish, parrotfish and marbled stingrays. South Button, Aquarium, Henry Lawrence, Inglis and Lighthouse are other good spots to feel the pulse of the sea and explore life under the surface of the water.
Walking along the beaches at Havelock is an out of the ordinary experience. Shells of myriad colours and shapes strewn on the sliver-white sand invariably have live creatures inside. The intricate sand art created by crabs is intriguing. These beaches are throbbing with life, quite literally. The water sparkles like a million gems as the sun hovers over its expanse, the waves dance to the tunes of the wind, the shade of the trees on the beach is inviting. Slow and laid back, these beautiful beaches are perfect for those who like to escape into the beauty of nature and the bliss of serenity.
We rented a scooter and hit the tarmac to explore Havelock Island. Riding along the shoreline we stopped at beaches along the way. The play of light and the colours of the water were a sight to behold. Starting from Radhanagar Beach we traversed the entire island on our bike reaching the Kalapathar Beach on the other side. Although we were assured that Havelock is very safe even at night, it got a bit spooky as we made our way back with the headlights piercing the darkness. There were no signs of people for miles on end. Braving the chilly wind and creatures calling out from the bushes we reached the resort.
Intensive logging has thinned down this densely wooded island. The residents are migrants from the mainland and visitors are tourists from India and abroad. Boats trickle into the jetty ferrying people and almost everything else that is used on the island. Newspapers are brought in all the way from Kolkatta every day. On the island are seven villages, splendid beaches and fields of areca, coconut, paddy and banana. Village 1 has the boat jetty and carries a trail of litter left behind by the large number of tourists who visit Havelock. Village 3(Govindnagar) has the market place and is abuzz with activity. This is where the locals buy commodities that are brought in from the mainland. Colourful Indian artifacts, shells and local handicrafts on display in roadside shops make a walk down the bazaar an interesting one. Village 5 has a string of resorts, restaurants and cafes lining the beach. Village 7(Radhanagar), located towards the northwest of Havelock is an ocean of calm. The Time Magazine voted the Radhanagar Beach as the best beach in Asia in 2004.
Crystal clear waters, sun soaked beaches and strips of silvery sand draw beach buffs to Havelock. Spectacular coral reefs and colourful fish that dart underwater make this a great spot for snorkeling and scuba diving. Hills overlooking the sea and mangroves bordering rivulets add variety to the landscape. Be it walking along the beach, diving into the sea or just devouring delicious food, Havelock presents a slice of adventure, tossed in bright sunshine and garnished with a cool blue of the ocean.

Quick Facts:

Getting There: Port Blair is connected to Chennai and Kolkatta by air and sea. Ferrys ply between Port Blair and Havelock. Ensure that the flight timings and ferry timings to Havelock Island are well co-coordinated. Scooters are the best way of getting around Havelock. Carry your driving license.

Season: The weather is warm and oppressive for most part of the year. It is relatively cool in the peak season lasting from December to January. Avoid a visit to the Andamans from May through September.

Tariff: The tariff of cottages and villas range from Rs 6500/- to Rs 9000/-
For reservations contact,
Central Reservations
Barefoot Group, B-4, RM Towers
No. 108, Chamiers Road
Chennai -600018
Ph +91-9003115483, +91-44-24341001

For more information log on to http://www.barefootindia.com/

This article was published in The Hindu on the 20th of Jun 2010. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.hindu.com/mag/2010/06/20/stories/2010062050320800.htm

A Window to the Wild

2010-06-10T08:54:00.000-07:00

In the early eighties, a wildlife resort called Jungle Lodges and Resorts (JLR) was born at Mastigudi, along the banks of the River Kabini (a tributary of the Cauvery). JLR started as a small setup with a few tents by the river. Three decades later, it has grown into a chain of tourist homes that have pioneered eco-tourism and brought the locals and the tourists closer to the wild.
As part of the 30th anniversary celebrations of this award-winning government establishment, the Chief Minister unveiled a commemorative book titled “Wild Vistas”. The richly illustrated book is a treasure trove of nature’s bounties in Karnataka. Interspersed with stunning pictures that exude the energy of the wild, the book traces journeys into the jungles.
The attractive book is the tireless effort of Kunal Sharma supported by N. D. Tiwari. Kunal Sharma is the resort manager of Kabini River Lodge, the flagship property of JLR and N. D. Tiwari is the Managing Director of JLR. Kunal’s interest in JLR was kindled when he studied about the resort and its eco-tourism practices while doing his MBA specializing in Forestry Management. As a person who studied JLR academically, Kunal saw JLR from the outside and then it’s working from the inside. The book is an objective account by a person with a passion for the jungle.
For ages Karnataka has lured adventure lovers, wildlife enthusiasts and wanderlust tourists. From sun soaked beaches to misty hilltops, from the hiss of King Cobras to the kiss of elephants, from elusive tigers to vibrant peacocks, from dolphins to mahaseers, Karnataka is a traveler’s paradise. To its north, the Kali cascades down the Sahyadris. To its south, the Cauvery meanders along rugged slopes. To its west, towering hills stand in the way of rain-laden clouds.In between are dense forests, sylvan hills, velvety plains and verdant valleys. An assortment of flora and fauna thrive midst the loops of flowing rivers and the lungs of the countryside.
It is hard to separate JLR from the best on offer for a nature lover in Karnataka. Twelve and counting, JLR’s resorts in pristine locations are windows to the vistas of wild Karnataka. Pictures spanning decades capture the landscape, the people and the wildlife – the essence of the biosphere of the state. “This book is about Karnataka, JLR is mentioned in the passing”, says Kunal who burnt midnight oil over the research for the book over the past two years. The book is a labor of love and is a compilation of the work of professional and amateur photographers, naturalists, travel writers and the staff of JLR. “Photographers gave some of their best captures without any hesitation. None of them asked for money”, says Kunal as he talks about the contributions that poured in generously.
JLR has loyal guests whose relationship with the resort and its conservation efforts have strengthened with time. “Eco-tourism should cover all aspects of nature. This book is an example of JLR’s association with nature lovers”, says N. D. Tiwari. Late Colonel John Wakefield’s principles of sustainable tourism ensured that JLR endorses and practices the concepts of eco and educative tourism. “Papa (as Colonel John Wakefield is affectionately called) opened his house for the research of the book”, says Kunal who unearthed some old photographs and references from shelves of the grand old man’s library.
Apart from showcasing the natural grandeur of each of the JLR resorts, the book is peppered with guest columns by eminent personalities like Bittu Sahgal, Dr. A.J.T. Johnsingh, Rohit Barker and Hugh and Coleen Gantzer. It also carries special features on eco-tourism and the people and traditions of the state.
The book puts forth the eloquence of nature. Some pictures speak a thousand words; others leave you at a loss for words. The yawn of a tiger, the art of a weaverbird, the kill of a leopard, the feed of a frog, the call of the wild- you can attribute some pictures to serendipity, the others to long hours, days, months and years in the jungle. Wild Vistas is an elaborate collection of evocative pictures, descriptive experiences and moments that are truly wild.

This article was published in The Hindu, Bangalore edition on the 10th of June 2010. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://beta.thehindu.com/arts/books/article450940.ece

Dancing Queen

2010-06-09T21:31:00.000-07:00

Gender is not black and white but shades of grey. Social stigma and bias pervades our society even as transgenders are fighting for their rights. Danseuse Hemabharathy Palani has broached on this socially sensitive topic in her latest work called ‘Uruvam’ (means form), a contemporary dance piece inspired by the mythological character of Ambe in the Mahabharatha. Prior to Uruvam, she conceptualized and created Chaaya (means shadow), another performance based on a social theme. While Uruvam is about osmosis of genders and sexuality Chaaya is about emerging from the shadows of sexual abuse at a young age.
Hemabharathy is a senior repertory member of Attakkalari Centre for Movement Arts, Bangalore. From the tender age of 12, she trained in Kuchupudi under renowned dancer Vyjayanthi Kashi. Apart from Indian classical dance forms like Bharathanatyam and Kathak, she has also trained in kalarippayattu, yoga, ballet and Pilates. “Gestures are used extensively in classical dance. Being a trained classical dancer, it was not easy to express myself only through body movements without any gestures”, she says talking about the transformation from classical to contemporary dance.
Chaaya is a tribute to unsuspecting victims of child sexual abuse. In the backdrop of an electro-acoustic musical score, Chaaya recreates the turmoil of womanhood, battling to erase a traumatic past. “Even if the child is not able to comprehend the gravity of the event, the body remembers it for many years”, Chaaya trails the stories of a few who are living with the scars of abuse and exploitation.
Hemabharathy was the recipient of the Robert Bosch Art Grant 2009, an award for young and talented artists by Robert Bosch Engineering and Business Solutions Ltd. In Uruvam, a creation that transcends time she has woven mythological stories, personal experiences and inputs from psychologists and experts. This 22-minute solo dance work, choreographed and performed by Hemabharathy was a yearlong project. “I want to use dance as a platform to raise the voice of the transgender community. This is my contribution to society for everything that dance has given me”, she says.
Uruvam, developed and produced under the auspices of Robert Bosch Art Grant gave Hemabharathy the freedom to express herself. The background scores are by Australian music composer Leah Barclay and the digital design and graphics are the work of Japanese media artist Matsuo Kunihiko. “I could devote all my time to my work as I did not have to worry about the money. Raising funds is a challenge”, she says.
As an upcoming artist on the Indian stage, Hemabharathy has many awards and accolades to her credit. She received the Priyadarshini award from the All India Ferderation and was conferred the title of an ‘A’ grade artist by the national television channel Doordarshan in 1999. In 2003, she was selected to represent India in an international choreography event in Essen. She was part of a team that performed at the Rashtrapathi Bhavan in front of the Heads of State of India, Brazil and South Africa. Hemabharathy has performed in Bonn, Frankfurt, Essen, Venice, Monaco, Munich, Dusseldorf, Bologna, Lublin, London, Yena, Amsterdam, Yokohama, Norway, Japan and China as part of the Attakkalari repertory. She is part of the current multi-media dance production ‘Chronotopia’ which toured Europe in March 2010.
An enduring journey through pain and suffering, varied perspectives and unheard voices made it to Hemabharathy’s storyboard. Through creativity and the power of her agile body she introduced a level of abstraction to real life stories. She studied the subject with passion and collated her experiences into performances that carry a social message.

Uruvam premieres at Alliance Francaise de Bangalore on 12th Jun 2010. The show begins at 7:30. Entry is free.

This article was published in The Hindu on the 10th of June 2010. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.hindu.com/mp/2010/06/10/stories/2010061051270300.htm

Dance For a Dream

2010-06-05T19:35:00.000-07:00

Lanky trees danced to the pitter-patter of rain. The wind was nippy and the smell of the wet earth wafted in the air. Cartwheels, action, dance and drama came together during a practice session of a unique performance called ‘Abertura’ (means ‘an opening’ in Portuguese). I was in BOSCO, a home for street children, watching Heidi Rehse make the newly formed troupe dance to her tunes. The exuberance of the trees seemed to have diffused indoors as the boys grooved to toe-tapping music. Much like trees that stood tall despite the gusty wind, the boys danced gleefully despite being victimized by life’s cruel ways.
Heidi is a professional dancer and choreographer from Germany. In the eighties, she went to Brazil to study dance through a student exchange program. For the love of dance, she stayed on for many years after the completion of her course. As her passion and profession, dance has become a way of life for Heidi. Being an exponent of samba, samba reggae, modern and contemporary dance, she was a part of various dance companies including Afro Dancarte, CIO Afro Danca and Spazzio Company. During her stay in Brazil, she interfaced with children in favelas (shanty towns) of Rio de Janeiro and introduced them to different forms of art. In 2000, she successfully conducted a dance and theatre project called Salamaleque (means ‘lively’ in Portuguese) in Rochina, the biggest favela in Rio and South America. Encouraged by the success of the project, Salamaleque was transformed into an NGO that supports children in education and health care apart from making them culturally aware.
From favelas in Rio de Janeiro (Brazil) to townships in Accra (Ghana) Heidi used art as a medium to bridge the gaps of race, religion and social status. Abertura was conceived in Rochina and has traveled across continents to Europe, Africa and now Asia. Heidi has worked with street children, children living in slums and immigrants who are trying to find their feet in a new country. “Everyone in the world can dance. Art is where the people are”, says Heidi who has been training people from different strata of society. Immigrants in Germany (in the age group of 11-30 years) who trained under her are going to perform in the upcoming International Youth Festival in Poland in June 2010. Samba Ao Cubo is a group of professional women dancers in Stuttgart, Germany who raise funds for the Salamaleque NGO by staging dance performances.

Working with children from disadvantaged backgrounds is a challenge but Heidi enjoys the experience and that is reason she is here in India. During her one-month stay in Bangalore she will conduct dance and art workshops for the BOSCO boys. "Children should have access to a cultural life. I want to introduce these boys to different forms of music and dance like gumboot and hip-hop. The workshop will include lessons covering the basics of dance and choreography”, she says. Heidi wants to combine the Indian street dance with elements from hip-hop, gumboot and other dancing styles. “We transform anger and rage into dance”, she adds describing Abertura, a performance that depicts violence and then transforms it into a high-energy dance. It is a fusion of theatre elements, non-violent fights, music and mimicry. The workshop will culminate with a staged performance. The boys will also learn to make the props for their stage show. “The boys are making such great progress right now, that I will be able to enhance the show to include a full gumboot performance”, comments Heidi. She plans to organize shows in different locations in Bangalore including two schools and a HIV hospital. . “The performance and experience will help them reinforce their self esteem”, she adds.
Its not just dance, Heidi wants to involve the boys in drawing and photography projects as well. In 2005, Salamaleque handed out disposable cameras to children in the favelas of Rio de Janeiro. Each camera could capture 27 images. The children were asked to depict their lives through photographs. The little ones composed excellent images bringing to light less known details of their favelas. Selected photographs were displayed in an exhibition called “A Look Inside”, in 2004. The exhibition has traveled to Munich, Stuttgart and Hamburg in Germany, Caxias do Sul and Rio de Janeiro in Brazil and Basel in Switzerland. In 2009, an exhibition called “African Moments” showcased the photographs by children in Ghana. Heidi plans to exhibit the photographic creations of the Brazilian and African children in India and take the photographs by the Indian children to England, Germany and Brazil.
“These children can show to the world outside what life means to them through their photographs”, she says, as I flip through the stack of enlarged photographs. Each photograph has a story to tell. While some are beautiful compositions others are disturbing. Through the photographs I traveled from the insides of a favela in Rio de Janeiro to a kitchen in Ghana. Schools, garbage dumps, bedrooms, friends, family and shops were subjects of the candid photographs. The dark side of life in our cities does not create the most pleasant of images to exhibit, but it gives us the chance to appreciate, understand and accept people, many of who are social outcasts.
For more information about Salamaleque contact Heidi at heidirehse@hotmail.com.

This article was published in Bangalore Mirror on the 06th of June 2010. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.bangaloremirror.com/article/81/2010060520100605201404183b4b906dc/Dance-for-a-Dream.html

Deep In The Jungles of Kakanakote

2010-05-10T22:36:00.000-07:00

The warm summer days are in. A carpet of dried leaves obscures the view of the forest floor. The sky is a spotless ocean of blue. The scorching heat depletes water reserves in the forest. The rising mercury levels sucks the water holes dry. River Kabini (also called Kapila) shrinks quite dramatically. On its dry banks is a spread of grass, young and green. In search of food and water of which precious little is available in the dense woods, wild wanderers move to the river in groups. Water is the key to their survival during the hot summer months.
The prey and the predator have to come to the river. This is a good time to spot the shy and the not-so-shy animals by the riverside. While some are out there to beat the heat with a swim, others arrive to quench their thirst. Large herds of elephants and deer are a common sight. On a lucky day, dholes (Indian Wild Dog), gaur (Indian Bison), tigers and leopards could also appear on the scene. Crocodiles sunning on rocks and sand banks are an added attraction. The game is on. Tourists, shutterbugs and wildlife enthusiasts wait in the wings to savour the sight of the Indian jungle and the life within. This is the “game” that we know of in this century.
The word “game” however had a different connotation in the past until the Wildlife Protection Act (1972) outlawed hunting of wild animals. Hunting was a regal sport. Maharajas and British officers had a big appetite for game hunting. Dukes and Viceroys were entertained in “game reserves” and often went on hunting expeditions in the Indian jungles. To have big game like tigers and leopards lying at their feet was a symbol of valour. Apart from shooting down animals in the wild, capturing elephants and inducting them into the royal army was a matter of great pride for the Maharajas.
Capturing wild elephants for domestication was a common ancient practice and invariably involved a gory procedure. Driving elephants into kheddas (enclosures) was one the chief methods employed for capturing herds of wild elephants. Hunting with trained females, pitfalls and noosing from the backs of trained elephants were methods used to capture single elephants.
As per historical accounts, Tipu Sultan and his father Hyder Ali failed in attempts to capture wild elephants for their armies. An attempt to capture these mammoths by a British Army Officer Colonel Pearson was also futile. At Kardihalli, G.P. Sanderson conducted the first successful khedda operation in the erstwhile Mysore State in 1873-1874. He was the officer in charge of the government elephant-catching establishment. He recounts his adventures and misadventures in the jungles in his literary work titled “Thirteen Years Among The Wild Beasts of India”. In his book, Sanderson writes, “Hyder made a trial, a century before, in the Kakanakote Jungles, but had failed and had recorded his opinion that no one would ever succeed, and his curse upon any one that attempted to do so, on a stone still standing near the scene of his endeavors”. Capturing a herd of wild elephants was no easy task. After the first successful elephant capturing operation, the forests of Kakanakote became synonymous with the kheddas. Over the next century, 36 kheddas were conducted until the imposition of the ban.
The elephant capturing party consisted of human beaters, mahouts, guards, helpers and domesticated elephants called kumkis. Once a large herd of elephants was identified for capture, the hunting party surrounded the herd giving them no route for escape. A relatively large fenced enclosure of about 6-8 miles in circumference was erected encompassing the herd. The area was well equipped with cover, fodder and water to make it easy to confine the elephants. When the elephants tried to stray, large fires, shouts, drums and shots were used to scare the elephants and hold them back in the fenced area. The construction of a khedda commenced soon after the elephants were surrounded. The size of the enclosure was about 20-50 yards in diameter and about 12 feet in height. The fortification was strongly backed by sloping supports and binders. The location selected for the construction of the khedda was such that it was hidden behind the cover of the undergrowth and was generally on one of the elephants’ chief runs. The gate was made strong and had iron spikes embedded on it. To guide the elephants into entering the stockade two lines of strong palisades flanked the path of entry. Human beaters drove the petrified elephants into the funnel-shaped path and closed in from behind.
After the elephants were impounded into the khedda, mahouts on kumkis entered the scene. It is said that the wild elephants often calmed down at the sight of their domesticated counterparts. The mahouts used this to their advantage and surrounded the wild elephants. The helper seated at the back used an iron rod to the prod the elephant that would eventually lift its wounded leg and fall trap to the noose in the hand of the rope-tier. Using the same procedure the other three legs and neck of the elephant were lassoed and the wild elephant would eventually succumb to the wounds and pain.
The Kakanakote Kheddas were also famous for the river-drive operations in which wild elephants were driven across the river Kabini into a stockade. It is said that Sanderson designed the river-drive in honor of the Grand Duke of Russia during his visit in 1891. This crude method of capturing wild elephants was a spectacle for the visitors and a matter of immense pride for the officers in charge. Hordes of spectators seated in special galleries for visitors were witness to the event.
Today, the happy hunting grounds of the royalty attract tourists in large numbers. The Rajiv Gandhi National Park (formerly Nagarahole National Park) abounds with wildlife. The century old Maharaja Bungalow and Viceroy Bungalow in Kharapur are a part the Kabini River Lodge, the first resort of the Jungle Lodges and Resorts, a government of Karnataka undertaking.
From my boat cruising on the River Kabini, I saw herds of elephants and alone tuskers walking majestically on its banks. I watched in awe, as they seemed mindless of the people around. This is the closest I can get to the elephants in the wild. I gazed at the old black and white photographs hanging on the walls of the Maharaja Bungalow, formerly the hunting lodge of the Maharaja of Mysore. This is the closest I can get to this piece of history dangling across the jungles of the Mysore State.

This article was published in Deccan Herald on the 11th of May 2010. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.deccanherald.com/content/68693/deep-jungles-kakanakote.html

He Moved The Cheese

2010-04-27T22:23:00.000-07:00

If you think only the Italians are adept in art of making mozzarella, think again. Bangalore has its very own “cheese factory” that has brought to India some of the best-kept cheesy secrets of Italy. In a quite corner of Gualbert Bhavan in Thambuchetty Palya (near K.R. Puram), monks of the Vallombrosan Benedictine Confederation churn out fresh cheese every day. Father Michael, who is the administrator of the Vallombrosa cheese unit, learnt the art of transforming milk to mozzarella during his stay in Naples, Italy. After returning to India, he set up a unit that produces Bangalore’s very own Italian Mozzarella. His cheese-making unit got its first order in 2005. Now, chefs of five-star hotels and popular European restaurants turn to this modest establishment for cheese that goes into making their exotic continental and Italian delicacies.
Benedictine Confederation’s motto is “Ora et Labora” which translates to “pray and work” in Latin. In keeping up with the spirit of St. Benedict’s philosophy, the Benedictines have taken up vocations through which they not only eke out a living but also contribute significantly towards preserving art, culture and science. The Benedictine monks in Bangalore have turned to cheese making as a source of income for the monastery. “When we have our own means to earn a living we don’t have to depend on funding from outside”, says Father Michael who is the centrifugal force behind this indigenous cheese factory.
Father Michael was the first Vallombrosan of Indian origin. The comment of Franco Thrumby, an Italian businessman who claimed that he hadn’t eaten a pizza with good mozzarella during his sojourn in India sowed seeds of thought. Although the ball was set rolling soon after, there were a bagful of challenges to contend with in the nascent stages of his venture. The quality of the cheese produced depends on the quality of the milk and the quantity depends on the day’s supply of milk.” We were not sure if mozzarella has a market in India. The machinery, lactic ferments and enzymes had to be imported from Italy. Finding vendors who sell sizable quantity of buffalo milk was also a challenge”, he says looking back at the tough days.
Undeterred by these initial impediments Father Michael began making cheese, albeit in small quantities. With one kilogram of mozzarella that was sent for sampling to Manjit Singh, the owner of Herbs and Spices, he landed his very first order. He visited Italy again in 2006 to fine-tune and learn the nitty gritties of cheese making. The Oberoi, The Leela Palace, The Lalith Ashok, Toscano, Olive Beach, Fierano and The Park Hotel are some of his loyal customers. The cheese even travels to top-notch restaurants in Chennai, Mumbai, Cochin and Singapore.
Buffalo milk is sourced from farms in Hoskote and Hosur everyday. There are just six people involved in the entire operation from procurement to production and delivery. Father Jinse assists Father Micheal in the cheese production. There are two drivers, one to procure the buffalo milk and the other to deliver the cheese. Two helpers assist in packing and cleaning.
The cheese is freshly made on a daily basis, six days a week. “We have never turned down any order. We take orders as small as half a kilogram”, says Father Michael. With the present capacity they are able to make 40 kilograms of mozzarella from 200 liters of buffalo milk. Ricotta is produced as a by-product. “When the demand is high we make the cheese twice a day. It goes up to 2 am”, he adds. While the soft cheese preserved in brine and stored under regulated temperatures of one to four degree Celsius has a shelf life of 15 days, the hard cheese gets better with age. Fresh mozzarella, Bocconcini, Ricotta, Mascarpone and Caciotta are some popular varieties of Vallombrosan cheese.
We have been introduced to alu tikki burgers and paneer tikka pizzas, so do we also have cheese customized to tickle the taste buds of Indians? “Hard cheese comes in four flavours to suit the taste of Indians. We have chilli cheese, black pepper cheese, cumic cheese and mustard cheese”, says Father Michael with a smile.
We’ve been buying cheese off the shelves of super markets for so many years. So what’s special of Vallombrosa Mozzarella? Almost instantly, Father Michael replies, “Vallombrosa Mozzarella is made from buffalo milk. It is vegetarian, organic cheese prepared by the traditional Italian method. There are no preservatives and the enzymes used for production are also vegetarian.”

Vallombrosa cheese is available at Namdhari’s Fresh outlets, New Frosty’s Cold Storage and Palm Meadows in Whitefield.
For more info log onto www.vallombrosacheese.com

Types of cheese available

1. Fresh Mozzarella: This is a Vallombrosan specialty that can be used in pastas, sandwiches and for making fried mozzarella sticks.

2. Bocconcini: This is also called as Cherry Mozzarella due to its shape, which resembles that of a cherry. Can be used in a wide range of recipes including wonton wraps, fried bocconcini and sandwich fillings.

3. Burrata: Layered cheese balls with mozzarella paste on the outside and cream and shredded mozzarella on the inside.

4. Ricotta: A classic Italian white cheese ideal for use in preparation of desserts like cassata, fruit salad, cheesecake and cannoli. Ricotta is a by-product of Mozzarella.

5. Mascarpone: Creamy cheese used as soup topping and in Italian desserts like Tiramisu. This dessert cheese compliments chocolates, coffee, fruits and liqueurs.

6. Caciotta: An Italian styled hard cheese made from the milk of jersey cows. The cheese is rubbed with tomato paste and olive oil to enhance the taste and act has a natural preservative.

7. Pizza cheese: Pizza cheese is soft in texture and is highly recommended for American style pizzas and Italian delicacies like lasagna, pasta and pizza.

8. Pecorino: Made from sheep milk, Pecorino Romano is a hard, salty Italian cheese.

9. Fresh Goat Cheese (Feta): This is fresh salted curd cheese made from goat’s milk. It is an important ingredient in Greek Salad. Goat cheese is made in Kottayam, as goat milk is hard to procure in Bangalore.

This article was published in Bangalore Mirror on the 28th of April 2010. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.bangaloremirror.com/article/10/20100428201004280531213148c302d4e/Desi-Mozzarella.html

Where There is a Will

2010-04-05T21:25:00.000-07:00

Four-and-half year old cherubic Kavi Arasi walked into the room and engaged in a lively conversation, I wondered what she perceived the world to be? She lavished affection and piggybacked on a person she calls "Kancho" (a term used to refer to the master in martial arts), I wondered who she imagined him to be. She is a bundle of joy and I could not take my eyes off her. Always in high spirits, she jumped around and was all ears to the sounds around her. Kavi or should I refer to her as Arasi (means queen in Tamil), as she is the queen of the Rakum School for the Blind. The rule of admitting children above the age two-and-half-years had to be bypassed when Arasi who was born blind was brought to the school when she was just six months old. She was frail and weak then. She is a livewire now.
Acharya Sri Rakum, an internationally renowned martial arts exponent is the founder of Rakum School for the Blind. The school at Indiranagar was established in 1998 and had a modest beginning with just three students. The success of the first school and the ever increasing number of students led to two more schools being established, one at Devanahalli in 2003 and the other at Arkavathy Layout in 2006. Currently there are 150 boarders in the Indiranagar School, 200 day scholars and 150 residents in the Devanahalli School and 25 boarders in the Arkavathy School. Life has come a full circle for “Kancho” (Achraya Sri Rakum is affectionately called “Kancho” by the children) who has transitioned from breaking world records in the field of karate to building lives of boys and girls who come to his schools from far and wide.
Sighted and visually impaired children study and stay together at the Rakum Schools. Each visually impaired child is paired with a sighted child who lends a helping hand when the need arises. The sighted children read from the blackboard and the visually challenged read from printed Braille books, but apart from this their education is the same. All students are provided free schooling, food and boarding facilities. Sri Rakum who has a black belt in karate and is also trained in yoga personally imparts lessons to the students. Slots are reserved for karate and yoga in the daily schedule. Music and dance are also part of the curriculum.
“Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day, teach a man to fish you feed him for a lifetime”, says Sri Rakum. This is the principle behind moulding his children into able-minded youngsters who are capable of facing the challenges that lie ahead. Karate is for self-defense, yoga is for a healthy mind and body and music is for the soul. Until class four, classical music and dance are compulsory for all students. The sighted children above the age of eighteen are given driving lessons. Twelve students who have completed their post graduation and five students who have successfully graduated were appointed as directors of different functions of the school.
The campus at Devanahalli is much more than a school. It has a garden, a hundred-bed dormitory for boarders, a health care centre, a goshala (cow shed), a rainwater harvesting plant and a biogas plant. The children are taught to respect and live in harmony with nature. Cow urine mixed with water is used for watering plants, dish washing water is treated into ‘grey water’ and is used for cleaning the floors; cow dung is used in the experimental biogas facility; solar panels have been installed to tap solar energy.
While the primary focus is on educating children from underprivileged backgrounds and making them self sufficient, the Rakum Blind School is also engaged in various social initiatives. The first day of every month is “Seva Day”. Women above the age of 65, registered as senior citizens are given monthly rations and a pension of Rs. 100/. Rice, wheat, sugar, ragi, soap, toothpaste and a toothbrush are given to each person every month. Old clothes, utensils, footwear, medicines and household items collected from public donations are distributed. 850 people from six slums in Bangalore, across 19 districts in Karnataka and 11 districts in Tamil Nadu, Andhra and Maharashtra are beneficiaries of this program. Sarojamma, the president of the domestic workers union of Karnataka helps in coordinating the activities on Seva Day and ensures that the aid reaches the right people. “I can understand English and can even speak a few sentences. I have gone to China and got an award in New Delhi”, she says with immense pride. It was reassuring to see that a person who hails from a modest economic background could make a difference to the lives of so many people. Under the “Helping Hand” project about 200 single mothers are aided. Their children are provided stationary, medicines and rations. Unemployed visually challenged people over the age of 30 years can also avail the benefit of a monthly pension, supply of monthly ration and Braille items. When Sri Rakum visited the slums he was appalled to witness fights over bearing the cost of cremating the dead. He then offered to pay Rs.750/- to cover the transportation and costs towards cremation for each death in the slums that was substantiated by a valid death certificate.
Kancho is a simple man of few words. He lets his actions speak louder than his words. “I am always a fielder in this game”, he says. I just catch the ball from one side and throw it to another. What I get from the rich I give to the poor”, he adds with a smile.

For more information log on to www.rakum.org

This article was published in Deccan Herald on the 06th of April 2010. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.deccanherald.com/content/62241/where-will.html

Pushing Tresholds

2010-03-29T23:34:00.000-07:00

Pushpanjali Reddy is a tall woman. Being an architect and builder by profession, she was forced to stand tall in a space that has for long been a man’s stronghold. As an entrepreneur, she is the founder of three business ventures. Pushpanjali has now donned a new hat and has turned author. She is elated about the release of her first book, de Facto, the definitive women’s directory.
Big ideas invariably have small beginnings. What began as a search for a lady surgeon to perform an operation gathered momentum and is all set to fly out as a first of its kind ready reckoner for women. The book was launched on 8th March 2010, on the occasion of International Woman’s Day.
“Initially people were skeptical and it was hard to get information. But soon, the idea caught up and many were enthusiastic and excited to be featured in the book”, she says with a smile. The highlights of the inaugural edition of de Facto are profiles of women achievers, “must knows” for women, pioneers in various fields and a listing of women entrepreneurs who have carved a niche for themselves in different spheres of life. It also contains details of organizations, associations and services for women. “Famous Firsts is about women who have broken barriers to achieve something that has never been done before”, says Pushpanjali speaking about the section, which is her personal favorite.
The women of today are standing tall in what was once a man’s world. They dare to take the road less traveled. Defying the odds, they can make the impossible, possible and are redefining the phrase that the “sky is the limit”, quite literally. The book features achievements of about 70 such women who have scripted stories of success. Dr. Sakhubai Ramachandran, the first lady veterinary doctor, Dr. Pushpa Dravid, the first candidate to be awarded a PhD in fine arts from Bangalore University, ace swimmer and coach Nisha Millet, social scientist and activist Rohini Reddy, fitness expert Wanitha Ashok, martial arts exponent Vandana Rao, coffee taster Sunalini Menon and graphics designer Sujatha Keshavan Guha are some go-getters to be profiled in the inaugural edition of de Facto.
de Facto is spruced up with interesting trivia like the sari that plays music and a course for women who aspire to become priestesses. “Swaramadhuri”, a silk sari embedded with micro-speakers and can play as many as 200 songs on the trot, is the brainchild of a designer in Dharmavaram. An institution in Pune offers a one-year course in priesthood for women. Priyadarshini is a project introduced by the Ministry of Tourism to train women in driving, vehicle maintenance and foreign tourists etiquette.
“With each passing day more women are becoming independent and are taking up challenging jobs. We have lady mahouts, detectives, pilots, auto drivers and even a lady priestess. There is nothing a woman cannot do”, says Pushpanjali. She hopes that youngsters dream big and work towards making their dreams a reality. “The book features inspiring stories and tough journeys of women. I hope it motivates the younger generation and provides a window to opportunities that lie ahead”, she adds.
“The research for the next edition of de Facto is already underway.”, she says mentioning that the book is scheduled to have an annual release. “Since this is a directory the profiles are short and crisp. This is going to be followed up by another book that traces the journeys, hardships and success stories of the women featured in this book”, she adds speaking about what’s next in line.
“It’s a one-woman show, I have done everything from funding to research to publishing. It has been difficult but fulfilling”, she adds. Youthful and bubbling with energy, Pushpanjali is one those who will remain sweet sixteen forever.

Priced at Rs. 495/- the book will be available in all leading bookstores.

This article was published in The Hindu, Bangalore edition on the 30th of March 2010. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.hindu.com/mp/2010/03/30/stories/2010033050470100.htm

It was also published in the Chennai, Delhi and Coimbatore editions of The Hindu.

Delhi Edition:
http://www.thehindu.com/mp/2010/04/08/stories/2010040850410100.htm

Chennai Edition:
http://www.thehindu.com/mp/2010/04/06/stories/2010040650230500.htm

Winds of Change

2010-03-08T06:38:00.000-08:00

As the old saying goes, “Necessity is the mother of invention”. For Pushpanjali Reddy, a successful architect, builder and industrialist, the need to know, fueled her desire to discover; discovery led her to explore; exploration revealed secrets of success. These inspiring stories made their way into de Facto, a ready reckoner for women.
Pushpanjali Reddy is the founder of Tropical Habitat India Pvt Ltd, a long-standing construction firm. She set up Ope Systems Pvt Ltd, to manufacture unplasticized polyvinyl chloride (uPVC) windows used in her constructions. She is also the co-founder of Awel Energy, a go-green firm that deals with biomass and renewable energy. Being a self-made entrepreneur, she aspires to establish a platform that highlights achievements of women entrepreneurs in Bangalore.
The inaugural issue of de Facto will be released on the 8th of March 2010 on the occasion of the 99th International Woman’s Day. “The book is about women who have made significant changes to society and life”, says Pushpanjali. The first edition of this directory showcases achievements of women who have battled against the odds to carve a niche for themselves in different walks of life. It features path-breakers who have excelled in domains that have long been a man's stronghold. The book is scheduled to have an annual release and contains a comprehensive listing of women professionals and entrepreneurs based out of Bangalore.
Most of Pushpanjali’s business and social ventures have been preceded by challenges and accidents. When advised to undergo a surgery, she insisted on being operated upon by a lady. After bearing the pain for over a year, a laborious search led her to find a lady surgeon to perform the operation. This incident and the inconvenience it caused propelled her to create a medium of easy access to information about women professionals. Seeds of thought blossomed into an idea and de Facto was conceived.
Educational institutions, business holdings and professionals like consultants, architects, surgeons, advocates, fashion designers, veterinary doctors are listed in the book. It also features quotes by women, interesting trivia and must-knows. “It has been a difficult but fulfilling journey”, says Pushpanjali as she recounts her struggle to put the pieces of the puzzle together.
Pushpa Dravid, her teacher during her course in architecture was the first to be profiled. Coffee taster Sunalini Menon, “Mango Rani” Sharmila Pattawardhan, India’s first lady veterinary doctor Sakkubai Ramachandran, graphics designer Sujata Keshavan, vocalist and danseuse Manasi Prasad, swimmer Nisha Millet, martial arts exponent Vandana Rao and social activist Rohini Reddy are some achievers featured in this issue of de Facto. “I feel that I have grown sixty years older in a year”, she says talking about the humbling experience of following these chronicles of success.
“The concept of featuring the achievements of multi-faceted women is great as there is no directory of this kind which highlights the achievements of women”, says Pushpa Dravid as she lauds the novel idea of creating a directory about women. Pushpa was conferred the state award for arts in 1997-1998. A professor of architecture at UVCE, she is the first candidate to be awarded a doctorate in arts from Bangalore University “Girls are hardworking and its tough to find time to pursue their interests as they have to go out to work and look after the family and home”, says Pushpa Dravid as she talks about the challenges she faced as a working woman while pursuing her interest in art.
Internationally renowned coffee cupper Sunalini Menon joined the Coffee Board of India as an Assistant Taster and went on to become the Director of Quality Control. With decades of experience in evaluating, roasting, tasting and qualifying coffee behind her, Sunalini started Coffelab in 1997. The laboratory manned by women, provides quality related services to assist the various stakeholders of the coffee industry in India.
Bangalore’s very own girl with the golden voice, Manasi Prasad leaves a trail of accomplishments as she scales new heights of success. An IIMB graduate, Manasi has excelled both in academics and in the field of art. Being recognized as one among the top ten students of all IIMs she was a recipient of the coveted Aditya Birla scholarship. Manasi has performed in over 500 concerts in India and abroad. In 2008, she was conferred the prestigious Ustad Bismillah Khan Yuva Puraskar awarded to exceptionally talented artists below the age of 35.
“de Facto is a solid idea and a good resource for women”, says Vandana Rao, a third degree black belt in the ancient Korean martial art Tang Soo Do. She trained under Master David Bell while in Fremont, California. After relocating to Bangalore, Vandana established The Healing Arts Center, a school of art. At this school she imparts training in Tang Soo Do, Chi Kung, a Chinese meditative practice and yoga. “Learning martial arts has strengthened my identity and made me focus on who I am. I have become a stronger mother, stronger daughter and stronger wife”, says Vandana.
The queen of the water, Nisha Millet who swam her way in the record books is also profiled in the book. In a career that spanned over 15 years Nisha has won about 600 gold medals in various events and still holds the record for the maximum gold medals in the National Games. She has won several prestigious awards including the Arjuna Award, Ekalavya Award and Rajyotsava Award. At present, Nisha is a much sought after coach who trains swimmers of various age groups.
Sujata Keshavan Guha is the co-founder of Ray and Keshavan, a firm that is a pioneer in the field of brand consulting and graphic design in India. The firm has been consistently ranked as India’s top design firm and Sujata was named as one of India’s top 30 powerful women. She is the only Indian graphics designer to have received the Advertising and Marketing (A & M) Graphics Designer of Year award twice.
The book also features Kapila Saigal, small town girl who has mastered the mantra of success. She landed her first job as a marketing executive and then went on to establish a printing business. Her desire to explore and excel prompted her to set up Chandni Chowk, a flamboyant restaurant in an up market location of Bangalore. Exquisite restaurants Heera Panna, Jalsa and Ruh followed the success of Chadni Chowk. Hats off to this lady who came Bangalore with just eight hundred rupees in her pocket!
At 79, Dr. Sakkubai Ramachandran who has the distinction of being the first lady veterinarian in India is the oldest achiever to be featured in de Facto. In 1948, Madras Veterinary College opened admission of girls and Sakkubai was one of two girls who joined the course that year. After graduating in 1952, she worked as a virologist and scientist at Indian Veterinary Research Institute (IVRI) till her retirement in 1991.
These women are living examples of the adage, “Triumph always begins with you” and are just a few of many who have launched themselves to the pinnacle of glory. The women of today are standing tall in what was once a man’s world. They dare to chase wild dreams and take the road less traveled. Defying the odds, can make the impossible, possible and are redefining the phrase that the “sky is the limit”.

This article was published in Bangalore Mirror on the 08th of March 2010. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.bangaloremirror.com/article/10/2010030820100308015716903b1d950fe/A-fair-success.html

In the Heart of Art

2010-03-03T20:47:00.000-08:00

“She taught me to see”, says Soumya looking at her mother with pride and admiration. Born into a family of luminaries, Soumya Aravind Sitaraman is orbiting success like her ancestors who defied the norm during their times. Her paternal grandmother Alamelu Viswanathan, acted in the first black and white Tamil talkie and her maternal grandmother Kumuda, was one of the first woman pilots in India. Her mother, Usha Kris is a renowned freelance photographer and a guest lecturer at St. Xavier’s College, Mumbai. Trailing on a rich lineage, Soumya’s artistic adroitness comes as no surprise. Authoring a book that has been well received by readers is just another feather in the cap for this award-winning artist and illustrious freelance writer.
Growing up in Chennai, Soumya was exposed to music, dance and art. Her tryst with tradition began at a tender age. She graduated with a degree in Environmental Science and wedlock took her to the Silicon Valley where she established herself as an eminent artist. Soumya’s penchant for art manifested in myriad forms. She used art as a medium to bridge cross-cultural differences. Her work has won accolades from various quarters.
A patron of the arts, she pioneered many initiatives that supported artists from different backgrounds. While in California, she founded Shakti, a coalition of contemporary artists of Indian origin. Under the aegis of Shakti, budding artists exhibited their work at the Euphrat Museum of Art in Cupertino. This was the first of many exhibitions to follow. Shakti was an amplifier of the unheard voices of talented Indians in the Bay Area, California
Soumya was the cultural coordinator of the 1995 Santa Clara chapter of Las Madres, a support group for mothers. For two consecutive years, she curated exhibitions that showcased talents of stay home mothers. She was the first Indian to be conferred the artist-in-residence award at the Works Gallery in San Jose where she created “Lifelines”, a series of 12 paintings that depict powerful stories of individuals living in an environment of diffused, diverse cultures. Soumya painted a 1972 model Volkswagen Bug that was featured in documentary filmmaker Harrod Blank’s movie “Wild Wheels” and book titled “Art Cars”.
Chachaji’s Cup, a children’s book that has illustrations by Soumya is another work to her credit. In 2004, the book won several awards including the Skipping Stones Honor Award in the Multicultural and International Category, the Paterson’s Prize for books meant for the young and the Papertiger’s illustrator’s award. “Tea With Chachaji”, a musical based on the book Chachaji’s Cup is the latest production of Making Books Sing, an innovative arts organization based in New York. Stanford Lively Arts produces and presents performances in Stanford University and has added three shows of “Tea With Chachaji” on its calendar of events for the year 2010.
Soumya did not rest on her laurels. Relocating to Bangalore with her family gave her an opportunity to immerse herself in the lore of India. The feeling that we don’t always appreciate age-old traditions that are based on scientific reasoning kindled her quest for a deeper understanding of Hinduism. She sought explanations for religious practices and rituals. Answers prompted more questions and that led her on a path of discovery.
Her research took her to remote pockets of the country. “One gets to see a different dimension of India that you can’t experience being out of the country ”, says Soumya, while talking about her dive into the depths of our rich culture and heritage. “You come face to face with life”, she adds. The wealth of information that she had accrued over the years shaped up as a book. Follow The Hindu Moon, a comprehensive guide to the festivals of South India marked Soumya’s debut as an author. “Celebrate”, the first of the two-volume set portrays the fervour and revelry of festivities. The second volume titled “Understand” is a treasure trove of information about various customary practices covering Hindu cosmology, culture, traditions, festoons and recipes. The richly illustrated coffee table book contains over a thousand photographs by Soumya’s mother.
In India, celebration is a way of life. In keeping up with the spirit of celebration, Soumya is hosting a television show called “Let’s Celebrate”. This festival special will be aired on Sri Sankara TV. Being a perfectionist who leaves nothing to chance, Soumya co-ordinates the entire spectrum of activities from shooting to editing of episodes of her show. When she is not facing the cameras, she is behind it directing the shoot. “Creativity is a channel of expression”, she asserts while talking passionately about topics ranging from the vedas to colours on the canvas.

This article was published in The Hindu on the 04th of March 2010. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.hindu.com/mp/2010/03/04/stories/2010030451610300.htm

Hopping Across the Isles

2010-01-16T19:00:00.000-08:00

As the aircraft descended rapidly, I got the first glimpse of the turquoise blue water, silver sands and thick forest cover of islands sprinkled in ocean. With roughly 306 islands and 206 rocks and rocky outcrops the Andaman and Nicobar Islands form the largest archipelago in the Bay of Bengal. Diverse ecosystems like coral reefs, mangroves, wetlands and tropical rainforests co-exist in harmony on these islands. Amidst the densely wooded forests and in the depths of the warm tropical waters thrive a gamut of flora and fauna many of which are endemic to the Andamans. Port Blair, the capital of the union territory of Andaman and Nicobar is also the principal port and entry point into the archipelago.
Tribes native to the Andamans like the Great Andamanese, Jarawas, Onge, and Sentinelese have receded into the densely wooded areas of the forest. Most of the permanent residents of inhabited islands are migrants from the mainland. Apart from Hindi, which is the common language across the islands, Tamil and Bengali are widely spoken.
The Andamans have a checkered past. The British occupied parts of the Andamans in the pre-independence era and set up penal colonies. Being over a thousand kilometers from the mainland, they perceived these islands to be ideal locations to deport prisoners. The construction of the cellular jail in Port Blair began in 1896 and was completed in 1906. It had seven wings, a central control tower and 698 cells each of dimension 4.5m x 2.7m. Only wings 1, 6 and 7 remain now and this is the most prominent structure in Port Blair even to this day. Those who conspired against the British and resisted their colonial rule were sent to the cellular jail for solitary confinement under hostile conditions. The jail, also known as “Kaala Pani” (means Black Water in Hindi) is one of the darkest chapters in India’s struggle for freedom. The flogging stand, oil extraction vessel and the gallows are a mute testimony to the inhuman torture meted out to Indians. Stories of valour and defiance of our freedom fighters are narrated in the sound and light show, played to packed audiences every night. The cellular jail of Port Blair is now recognized as a national monument. Museums and photo galleries in its premises bring to life the untold miseries, pain and suffering of Indians held captive and mercilessly killed by the British.
Many islands like Ross Island, Viper Island, Havelock Island, Henry Lawrence, Jolly Boy and Neil Island still retain their English names and are reminiscent of British settlements in these areas. Ross Island was the seat of power during the British stronghold in the Andamans. The Japanese also occupied the island for a brief period during the II World War between 1942 and 1945. The island was well equipped with all amenities including a printing press, swimming pool, bakery, bazaar, church, tennis court and colonies of houses for British officials. Most of these structures were destroyed and only the ruins of these crumbling structures remain today. Trees are ingrained in the remnants of the walls that are still standing and makes for an interesting sight while on a trail around Ross Island. The Ferar Beach on the fringe of the island looks like a shot out of a picture postcard. Ross is a short ferry ride away from Port Blair and is worth a visit.
Going by recommendations from the locals, we decided to head out to Baratang Island. Although the journey to Baratang is very scenic it is arduous and has to be well coordinated. One stretch of the drive from Port Blair to Baratang passes through protected forest area reserved for the Jarawas. Vehicular movement is restricted through the Jarawa Reserve Forest and all traffic entering and leaving the Jarawa Reserve should be a part of a convoy led and trailed by police vehicles. An hour and half into our drive we arrived at the police check post at Jirkatang. Our car joined a convoy and we headed to Middle Strait to obtain permission from the forest department. We then proceeded to Oralkatcha in a ferry loaded with tourists and vehicles. Switching to a speedboat, we then cruised through a canopy of mangroves in crocodile infested waters to reach Navgarh. During the course of the ride we were fortunate to sight a crocodile basking in the sun. The tropical rainforests of Navgarh were green as green can be and we walked through the pathway paved through the dense undergrowth. A short hike through the forest led us to limestone caves where we got to see well-formed stalactites and stalagmites. While some were long slender sticks of limestone, others had unique shapes. One was in the shape of a jellyfish, the other had a stark resemblance to an elephant and the third resembled a coral. It was a pleasant surprise to see that the entire area was clean and free of plastic. Our next stop was a mud volcano site in Baratang. Mud volcanoes are rare and geographically significant but can be disappointing if you are expecting to see something spectacular like an active volcano. One can see mounds of mud with a few bubbles of gas emanating from them. Barring infrequent violent eruptions these volcanoes are mostly placid. As we made our way back to Port Blair we spotted few Jarawas who had ventured onto the highway.
Known for its aquamarine waters, coral reefs and pristine beaches Havelock Island is frequented by tourists who come from the world over. From Port Blair, it takes about two hours on a ferry to reach Havelock, an island of the Ritchie’s Archipelago. The government has designated a few islands to promote eco-tourism in the Andamans and Havelock is one of them. There are seven settlements along the island. The beaches running along these settlements are suffixed with the number of the adjoining village. Beach 5 and Beach 7 are breathtaking strips of sand and sea. A well-laid road flanked by trees connects the villages across the island. The boat jetty is at village 1 and the market is at village 3 (Govindnagar). A string of resorts dot the eastern periphery of the island. Village 7(Radhanagar) located towards the northwest of the island is renowned for its crescent shaped beach, popularly known as the Radhanagar Beach. The lanky trees, silver-white sand and cool blues of the water create a visual spectacle. Waves that gently caress the shoreline make it an ideal spot for a plunge in the water. Scooters are the best way of getting around the island.
Havelock is a haven for those who like to discover the secrets hidden in the depths of the ocean. While the fit and adventurous swimmers can go scuba diving, snorkeling is for novices and non-swimmers. Lighthouse, Aquarium and Elephant Beach are great snorkeling spots near Havelock. As you breathe through the snorkel and look down at the ocean bed the colours beneath the blue-green façade of the sea come alive. Looking through crystal clear water, swimming over coral reefs and crossing the path of schools of fish were some of the exciting moments of my first ever-snorkeling experience. I got to see many hump head parrotfish, sea cucumbers, sea stars, clown fish (the fish featured in the movie “Finding Nemo”) and many more brightly coloured fish swimming across live corals. Words fail me as I recount my exhilarating experience.
The Andamans islands are set in a diverse social and geographical landscape. The coral reefs are unique, colourful and a sight to behold. Soaking in the sun on the bewitching beaches, walking through the rainforest, paddling through the mangroves and hiking in the hills are just some of the many “things to do” for hordes of tourists who visit the Andamans. But mindless tourism and exploitation of nature’s bounties, which have taken several hundreds of years to come to their present state, could prove to be a death knell. The construction of the Andaman Trunk Road that cuts through the forests home to the Jarawas and the heavy inflow of tourists has brought these Stone Age hunter-gatherer tribes in contact with the modern civilization. This is posing a serious threat to their survival and makes them prone to diseases against which they have no immunity. While one might get to see the Jarawas on the highway it is against the rules to attempt to capture their images on camera or establish any contact with them. The trail of plastic in places frequented by tourists can be disastrous for the environment. The hazardous impact of tourism on the fragile ecosystems and ethnic tribes of the Andamans is already showing distressing signs. It is of paramount importance that we behave as responsible tourists and leave these emerald isles just as they were when we set foot on them.

Quick Facts:

Getting There: Port Blair is connected to Chennai and Kolkatta by air and sea. Ferrys ply between Port Blair and the other popular tourist hotspots. Ensure that the flight timings and ferry timings to Havelock Island are well co-coordinated.

Accommodation: Port Blair and Havelock are tourist hubs and offer several options for food and accommodation. Barefoot Resort and The Wild Orchid are the most recommended places to stay in Havelock. ITC Fortune and Hotel Sinclair are the most sought after hotels in Port Blair.

Season: The weather is warm and oppressive for most part of the year. It is relatively cool in the peak season lasting from December to January. Avoid a visit to the Andamans from May through September.

This article was published in Deccan Herald on the 17th of January 2010. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.deccanherald.com/content/47120/shangri-sea.html

October Rain

2009-11-28T20:44:00.000-08:00

The plains were draped with prosperous paddy fields. Coy hills peeped out from behind veils of mist. The sun was cozily tucked into a heavy blanket of cloud. Neatly lined areca palms and healthy stems of sugarcane interspersed the seemingly unending stretch of paddy. Frequent cloud bursts ushered trails of new life. Heavy downpour and swirls of wind created a mystic aura in Malnad, a land no stranger to the Rain God. Painted green, even the bus I boarded at Shimoga seemed to be sporting the colour of the season.

Surrounded by the Sahyadris (Western Ghats) and fed by Tunga, Bhadra, Varada and Sharavati rivers, the Shimoga district is resplendent with plush hills, picturesque valleys and splendid waterfalls. My lungs had to quickly adapt to the unpolluted air of the countryside and my eyes to the unspoilt shades of green.

Rain Drenched
Following a good spell of rain, the Bhadra Reservoir was filled to capacity. Unprecedented showers meant that the water level was constantly on the rise. The fear of my holiday being washed away in the October rain, an anomaly for this time of the year, was lurking in my mind. I soon realised that this land looks beautiful when the sky is clear and even more beautiful when the rain is near. River Bhadra begins its journey in the Western Ghats and flows eastward across the Deccan Plateau. It joins Tunga and proceeds as Tungabhadra, which then meets Krishna on its way into the Bay of Bengal. The Bhadra Dam is built across the river at Lakkavalli, a hamlet on the border of Chikmagalur and Shimoga districts. Lakkavalli is abuzz with activity owing to its proximity to Jnana Sahyadri, the main campus of Kuvempu University and the Bhadra River Project (BRP). The BRP has a hatchery where fish like common carp and major carp (catla, rohu, mrigal, silver carp and grass carp) are bred through bund breeding. The green ponds in which eggs are hatched add to the diversity and splendour of the picturesque scenery.

There is a steady inflow of people into Lakkavalli and I was surprised to know that the locals even offer paying guest accommodation in their homes. Making my way through a sea of students flaunting colourful umbrellas, I reached the River Tern Lodge after rides on a train, a bus and a rickshaw.

Green Paradise
The fatigue from my overnight journey evaporated as I settled into the comfort of the idyllic environs of the resort. Rustic cottages and log huts spread across the sprawling property offer splendid views of the looming hills, the vast Bhadra reservoir and sunsets over the water. Time seemed to freeze as I stood in the balcony of my cottage watching the waves gently caress the land.

Thousands of river terns that flock sand banks near the resort during the warm summer months are just one of the many attractions on offer. Those who like a splash in the water can try their hand at kayaking, surfing and canoeing here. Nature lovers can go on boat rides into the reservoir. In good weather, mountain biking, star gazing and island camping are also viable options. A jungle safari in the Bhadra Tiger Reserve and Wildlife Sanctuary, which is about four kms from the resort is also included in the standard package. While the adventurous can choose to have an action packed day, others can unwind amidst nature’s breathtaking beauty.

A day with tuskers
Shimoga is about 38 kms and an hour’s drive away from the River Tern Lodge. Sakrebayalu Elephant Camp, Mandegadde Bird Sanctuary, Gajanur Dam and Tavarekoppa Lion and Tiger Safari are some places of interest near Shimoga Town. My personal favourite is the Sakrebayalu Elephant Camp on the banks of River Tunga. At present, there are about sixteen elephants in the camp. The elephants make their way into the camp at about eight in the morning. They are bathed, fed and taken back into the forest by noon. Visitors can watch the elephants being tended to and trained by their respective mahouts. Those who don’t mind getting down and dirty can follow the elephants as they wade into the water and join the mahouts in scrubbing the pachyderms. The elephants even oblige you for joy rides. The Shivappa Nayaka Palace in the heart of Shimoga is also worth a visit. Beautiful sculptures that are reminiscent of the glory of empires of yesteryear are displayed on the lawns of the palace.

The fabric of Malnad’s verdant landscape is a treat to the eye. From ancient temples and museums for those who like to walk down memory lane to well kept secrets of the wild for nature lovers, this green belt has a lot to offer. It is a place to explore, experience and enjoy the enigma of this state of many worlds.

Malnad Magic

Bhadra Tiger Reserve Fact File
An area of 77.45 sq.km was declared as the “Jagara Valley Game Reserve” in 1951 by the Government of Mysore.
This area was extended to 492.46 sq. km and was reconstituted as “Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary” by the Government of Karnataka in 1974.
The sanctuary is the 25th Tiger Reserve of India and was brought under “Project Tiger” in 1998.
The sanctuary spreads across the Chikmagalur and Shimoga districts of Karnataka and is surrounded by the hill ranges of Mullainagiri, Hebbagiri, Gangegiri and Bababudangiri. Kallathigiri is the highest peak in the sanctuary.
The Bhadra River and its tributaries Somavahini, Tadabehalla and Odirayanahalla flow through these forests.
The santuary is open to visitors from 6 a.m. to 9 a.m. and from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m.

Accommodation
The River Tern Lodge is a venture of the Jungle Lodges and Resorts and is set amidst bamboo shoots and tall trees on the slopes of a hillock leaning into the Bhadra Reservoir. It has twin-bed accommodation in cottages and log huts. The resort offers boat rides, and jungle safari and you can also indulge in water sports.
For more information log on to http://www.junglelodges.com/

Getting There
By road - From Bangalore, drive on NH4 towards Tumkur. Take the Shimoga bypass road at Tumkur and reach Tarikere via Arasikere, Kadur and Birur. Lakkavalli is about 275 Kms from Bangalore and 18 Kms from Tarikere.
By train - Reach Shimoga or Birur by train and take a bus from there to Lakkavalli. Lakkavalli is at a distance of 38 Kms from Shimoga and 45 Kms from Birur.

This article was published in Bangalore Mirror on the 29th of November 2009. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.bangaloremirror.com/index.aspx?page=article§id=81&contentid=20091128200911282015191433e0a9fd9

River Rendezvous

2009-10-31T20:40:00.000-07:00

The sky was steely grey, the earth startling green. Strong gusts of wind swept the verdant slopes. Clouds hurried past, kissing the top of one hill and moving on to another. I savoured the misty taste of sunshine as I clambered up the slope of a hill to reach the River Tern Lodge. Lying in nature’s lap and listening to her endless monologues I spent the next two days soaking in the bliss of serenity. Perched on hillocks overlooking the Bhadra Reservoir, this resort is an ode to nature’s ethereal beauty.
Established in 2005, the River Tern Lodge is among the newer ventures of Jungle Lodges and Resorts (JLR), a Government of Karnataka undertaking. This resort promotes eco-tourism and gets its name from the colonies of river terns that congregate on islands in its vicinity. The Indian River Tern (sterna aurantia) is a slender grey and white bird with a deeply forked tail. Thousands of river terns make these safe sand banks their home during the breeding season which lasts from March through May. The River Bhadra swells during the monsoons and the reservoir is filled to the brim. Many islands are submerged by the copious inflow of water. As the water recedes, the islands peep out and are ready to play host to the birds and their emerging chicks. This is also the breeding season for pratincoles (glareola lactea) which arrive in sizeable numbers.
While the rendezvous with the river terns is an attraction during the summer months, the monsoon is a time to enjoy the rains. Frequent cloud bursts are showers of blessings for the rich flora and fauna of this region. Green is the colour of the season. Blossoms flaunt a sprightly exuberance and butterflies flutter with joy. The rain sweeps the dust away and cools the forest floor. There are striking signs of freshness and prosperous abundance everywhere.
Aesthetic cottages with cozy interiors offer picture perfect vistas of the reservoir, the blanket of hills around it and sunsets over the water. Winding paths lined by a canopy of bamboos lead to the rustic cottages and log huts positioned at different levels. As I walked up the stone laden pathway, I wondered if green could ever be greener. The older cottages are on a peninsula the newer ones on an island. Christened as India and Sri Lanka respectively, these fragments of land are not oceans apart. Separated by a channel of the reservoir’s water, a wooden bridge connects the two. The gentle waves that dance to the melody of the swaying bamboos fill the air with rhythms of romance.
Delicious food is served in the “gol-ghar”, the open-to-sides gazebo. Guests can take their pick at the enticing spread that simmers over the red hot charcoal at “Salt Lick”, the dining area. The steward does a good job in tailoring the menu to suit the season and the climate. Alcohol is served at “Water-Hole”, the bar. Fresh fish from the reservoir transformed into mouth-watering delicacies by the local chef are among the culinary delights on the lunch menu.
The River Tern Lodge offers several activities for the visitors. Kayaks, canoes, wind surfs, water trampoline and pedal boats are available for those who enjoy aquatic adventures. The in-house naturalist accompanies visitors on nature walks in the sprawling 4.5 hectare property. Butterflies are a plenty. The great egg-fly, peacock pansy, chocolate pansy, plain tiger and bird wing butterfly are some that meet the eye frequently. When the water of the reservoir is placid, visitors can go on boat safaris to explore its vastness. Mountain bikes and coracle rides are available on request.
For those who like to venture out of the resort, the Bhadra Dam is just a couple of kilometers away. The panoramic view of the plains from the hills is a sight to behold. The velvety carpet of the paddy fields interspersed with lakes and the flowing Bhadra is a snapshot of the countryside at its very best. The Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary which is in close proximity to the River Tern Lodge is home to the big cats. Spanning over an area of 492 sq. kms, the sanctuary is the 25th tiger reserve in India and was brought under the “Project Tiger” programme in 1998. Peacocks, spotted deer, sambar deer, barking deer and Indian gaur are regular sightings on jungle safaris. The lucky ones would get to spot tigers, leopards, elephants and sloth bears. The Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary which boasts of over 300 species of birds including the endemic Malabar Trogon and Southern Treepie is a bird watcher’s paradise.
The River Tern Lodge is a far cry from the clutter of urbanization. Nestled in Western Ghats amidst stately hills and a landscape that changes with seasons, it is in harmony with nature. Chikmagalur is known for its coffee plantations and Shimoga for its luxuriant greenery. Located in Lakkavali, bordering the Chikmagalur and Shimoga districts of Karnataka, the River Tern Lodge is a window to the best of both worlds and is an enticing getaway for city dwellers.

Quick Facts:

Location: The River Tern Lodge is located in Lakkavalli in the Chikmagalur district of Karnataka. Shimoga is the closest town to Lakkavalli.

Getting There:
By road: From Bangalore, drive on NH4 towards Tumkur. Take the Shimoga bypass road at Tumkur and reach Tarikere via Arasikere, Kadur and Birur. Lakkavalli is about 275 Kms from Bangalore and 18 Kms from Tarikere.

By train: Reach Shimoga or Birur by train and take a bus from there to Lakkavalli. Lakkavalli is at a distance of 38 Kms from Shimoga and 45 Kms from Birur. The resort offers pick up facilities on request.

Season:
The weather is pleasant all through the year. March to mid May is the best time to see river terns. There is a good chance of sighting animals in the wild during summer. This region receives heavy rainfall between July and September after which the reservoir is full and the surroundings are lush.

Tariff:
Rs 3250/- per person per day. The package includes accommodation, breakfast, lunch and dinner, a boat ride and a safari in the Bhadra Tiger Reserve. Water sports come at an additional cost.

Other Attractions:
The Jog Falls, Sakrebayalu Elephant Camp and Amrutapura famed for its Narasimha Temple with Hoysala architecture are other tourist attractions in close proximity.

This article was published in The Hindu on the 01st of November 2009. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.hindu.com/mag/2009/11/01/stories/2009110150340800.htm

A Bridge Across Times

2009-10-10T19:45:00.000-07:00

Gokarna lies at the confluence of the Aghanashini and Gangavalli rivers and is cradled between the Sahyadris and the Arabian Sea. Its timeless temples and beguiling beaches draw a steady stream of devout pilgrims and tourists. While Gokarna's temples transcend eras its beaches are throbbing with life. With rugged trekking trails and great outdoors, the adventurous can embark on exciting paths of discovery in and around Gokarna.
Gokarna’s narrow lanes are dotted with many ancient temples. Pilgrims constantly pour into the Mahabaleshwara Temple and the Maha Ganapathi Temple which are considered supremely sacred. Most temples are dedicated to Lord Shiva and hence the festival of Shiv Ratri is celebrated with great fervour. Religious ceremonies and cultural events are organized as a part of the festivities which span nine days.
To the south of Gokarna town are four beaches wedged between rocky cliffs. The sun and the clouds that pepper the sky paint the water with shades of blue varying from turquoise to azure during the day and startling strains of orange at dusk. Om Beach is popular, Kudle Beach is pristine, Half Moon Beach is secluded and Paradise Beach is indeed a paradise. In good weather one can trek all the way from Kudle to Paradise.
Numerous cultures, customs and cuisines strike chords of harmony in this quaint town visited by people from the world over. With exotic resorts and spas for those who wish to be pampered in the lap of luxury to beachside shacks for travelers on a shoe-string budget, Gokarna offers a great fare to suit all pockets.

Famous Four
Being the only beach approachable by a motorable road Om is the epicenter of beach activities and water sports. With unique contours, its shoreline traces the sacred Hindu symbol and hence the name “Om”. The lush flora that thrives between the folds of the hills renders a scenic backdrop to this bewitching beach. It can get crowded on holidays when tourists and locals turn out in sizable numbers to have a splash and dash in the sea. As foreigners frequent Om Beach, the seafront shacks are well equipped to suit their tastes. From internet palours and pool tables to a painted platter with an enticing array of cuisines, these shacks have it all.
A short trek down the hill along a rugged path takes you to Kudle Beach which is often overshadowed by Om. Kudle which is located adjacent to the Gokarna Town Beach is relatively less hampered by human activity. It is an ideal retreat for people looking to getaway into the beauty and bliss of nature. Boats that drift along the shore occasionally, offer thrilling rides for those who like to hop across beaches.
Half Moon and Paradise Beaches can only be reached by foot or boat. These beaches which are not yet swept by the wave of commercialization are clean and cozy. Their splendid natural settings serve as great outdoor camping sites.

Mahabaleshwara Temple
A large number of pilgrims are headed to Gokarna for the "Koti Rudra" programme held at the Mahabaleshwara Temple. ‘Rudra’ is a set of verses in praise of Lord Shiva and it will be recited one crore times during the course of this year. The programme was launched on the 27th of April 2009 on the auspicious day of Akshaya Trithiya and is expected to complete on the day of Akshaya Trithiya in the year 2010.
Standing on a pedestal of history dating back to the era of the Ramayana, Gokarna is abuzz with legendary tales. There is an interesting story behind linga at the Mahabaleshwara Temple. The legend has it that Ravana performed severe penance at Kailasa, the abode of Lord Shiva to obtain the “atma linga” from the Lord. Ravana believed that he could attain the power of the Lord by worshipping the sacred linga. Lord Shiva who was impressed by Ravana's dedication gave him the atma linga stating that it should not be placed on the ground, failing which it would be rooted in the place where it is kept. Sage Narada feared that Ravana the asura (demon) would become invincible if he was empowered with the prowess of Lord Shiva.
The story goes that Narada approached Lord Vishnu to devise a plan to ensure that Ravana does not retain the atma linga. Knowing that Ravana would not fail to perform his evening prayers, Lord Vishnu is said to have positioned his Sudharshana Chakra between the sun and the Earth to create an illusion that it was sunset. It is said that Ravana stopped at Gokarna to perform his daily rituals and Lord Ganesha was sent there in the guise of a young boy. Ravana entrusted the linga with the boy and began his prayers. The boy agreed to hold the linga on the condition that he would leave it on the ground if Ravana failed to appear after he called out thrice if it became too heavy. It is believed that the Gods placed the weight of the three worlds on the linga which became unbearably heavy and the young boy called out to Ravana who was engrossed in his prayers. Since Ravana did not appear even after the repeated calls the boy placed the linga on the ground. It was firmly entrenched and could not be uprooted by Ravana. This is believed to be the origin of the linga at the temple and the story is often narrated with great enthusiasm.

Tadadi Fishing Port
The Tadadi village near Gokarna has a fishing harbour and a fish processing plant which was set up by a team of experts from Denmark. Many fishing communities thrive on the marine life that abounds in the region. While the men bring home the catch, the women slice the fish and marinate it with salt. The hills, the river, the colourful boats and the fish processing activities make a visit to Tadadi interesting if you can tolerate the strong odour.
The Danish team that worked at Tadadi resided in Konkan style cottages built on the slopes of a hill overlooking the valley in Gokarna. These rustic cottages are now converted into a resort. The Om Beach Resort that overlooks the intimidating horizon is a joint venture by Jungle Lodges and Resorts and Kairali Group of resorts.

Quick Facts

Getting There:
Gokarna is at a distance of about 470ms from Bangalore and is well connected by road to Bangalore, Mangalore and Goa. From Gokarna town auto rickshaws can be hired to reach the beaches.
Trains of the Konkan Railway stop at Gokarna Road. Gokarna can be reached by train from Mangalore and Goa.
Dabolim in Goa is the nearest airport.

Season: The best time to visit Gokarna is between October and March.

Accommodation:
Namaste Café is the most popular setup on Om Beach. Hotel Gokarna International on Kudle Beach has sea-facing rooms. A hotel with the same name in Gokarna Town is in the vicinity of the Mahabaleshwara Temple. The Om Beach Resort has beautiful cottages and an Ayurvedic spa. Beach shacks provide accommodation at rates as low as Rs100/- per.

Others:
According to the locals there are many wild peacocks in the hills of Gokarna. If you are on a trek in Gokarna look out for peacocks and peahens.
Sunscreen lotion, caps, torches and umbrellas will be useful.

This article was published in Deccan Herald on the 11th of October 2009. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.deccanherald.com/content/29818/a-bridge-across-times.html

Stamps, An Ocean of Knowledge

2009-10-10T07:07:00.000-07:00

India Post is celebrating the "National Postal Week" from the 9th of October 2009 to the 15th of October 2009.

The postal department delivers messages bundled in paper across social, physical and geographical barriers. Postage stamps are an integral part of this titanic network that connects people who are miles apart. Philately, the collecting and study of stamps, is a hobby that transcends time. It has evolved as an enjoyable, educative and engaging hobby. Dr R. Sango Ram, a retired professor of Chemistry and an avid philatelist says, “Stamps are mini-ambassadors of a country in a foreign land. They depict different facets of the country like its leaders, language, geography, history, scientific advancements, art, culture and heritage”.
The most common type of stamp collection is general collection which is an assorted collection of postage stamps. A specialized collection could be country collection or a topical or thematic collection which is typically inspired by a field of interest that could be related to sports, a favourite subject or an area of work. “Nobel laureates”, “the solar system”, “man on the moon” and “Comet Halley” are some of Dr Sango Ram’s thematic collections and he believes that, “Thematic collections are the best way for beginners to acquire knowledge and inculcate interest in philately”.
Definitive stamps and commemorative stamps are the two types of postage stamps. Definitive stamps which are printed in large numbers are used for postal mailing and are available to the public for prolonged periods. Definitive stamps of various denominations usually depict iconic leaders of the country. Commemorative stamps are less common and are released to commemorate an event, mark an anniversary, honour a famous person, recognize the importance of a place or showcase rare flora and fauna. Each commemorative stamp is printed only once in a limited quantity and can be procured at designated post offices until stocks last.
Apart from stamps first day issues like first day covers, information brochures, miniature sheets and sheetlets compliment one’s stamp collection. A first-day cover is a special envelope released when a new postage stamp is issued. Miniature sheets, sheetlets and souvenir sheets are small sheets containing one or more stamps along with special designs. Information brochures carry details of newly released stamps and the reasons for their issue. Occasional releases like maxim cards and special covers which are available for a limited period after the release are a collector’s delight. Maxim cards are special postcards which portray images that were printed on commemorative stamps. Special covers are released to mark occasions or events of local importance.
While some collectors prefer to collect mint stamps others prefer used stamps. Mint stamps are fresh stamps that have not been used for postage. Used stamps are those which have either been used for postage or have been cancelled on request by the collector. Cancellation is the process of postmarking postal stationary like mint stamps, first day covers and postcards.
The India Post is constantly enhancing its portfolio of postage stamps by adding new stamps with novel designs, unique shapes and vibrant shades. By subscribing to the philatelic services offered by India Post, these exquisite releases can be a philatelist’s prized possession. In 2006, India Post released its first fragrant stamp. In an elaborate three step process, the stamps were printed, rolled into cylinders with a special imported sandalwood based ink and dried. During the process of drying microcapsules which hold the fragrance of sandalwood were embedded in the stamp. The romantic scents of roses were impregnated in a special Valentine’s Day release in 2007. The year 2008 saw the release of the first set of calendar stamps by India Post with a collection titled “Festivals of India”. Calendar stamps are theme based stamps which will be released every month till the end of 2009 according to the current schedule. India Post is working with Hallmark India to bring out a collection of 25 all-time best Indian stamps in silver and gold.
Stamps are miniature art collectibles which can be instrumental in expanding frontiers of knowledge. Philately is often described as “the king of hobbies and hobby of kings” and is pursued by people at different strata of society. Through philately one can take a deep dive to explore many hidden secrets in the ocean of knowledge.

Philatelic Deposit Accounts
India Post provides a service by which newly released postage stamps are delivered to subscribers by Registered Post at no extra cost. Stamp collectors can subscribe to the latest philatelic releases by opening a Philatelic Deposit Account (PDA) with an initial deposit of at least Rs 200/-. Until recently, the Philatelic Bureau of the General Post Office (GPO) was handling all the Philatelic Deposit Accounts. Now, this function has been de-centralized and subscribers can open Philatelic Deposit Accounts at head post offices that cater to customers from localities in their respective jurisdictions.

Quick Facts:

Philatelic Deposit Accounts:
Residents of Bangalore can open Philatelic Deposit Accounts at the GPO and post offices at Basavanagudi, Jalahalli, Jayanagar, Rajajinagar, RT Nagar and HAL II Stage.

Philatelic Museum:
The Bangalore GPO has a philatelic museum which showcases stamps released from 1947 to 2008. The museum will be opened on request on all working days between 10am and 5pm.

Phila Post:
Priced at a nominal rate of Rs 10/- per issue and Rs 40/- for an annual subscription, this quarterly philatelic magazine is available at designated post offices.

Unity in Adversity

2009-09-29T01:46:00.000-07:00

“Don’t go the way life takes you… Take life the way you want to go. Remember, you are born to live and not living because you are born”. This quote on the bulletin board of Support, a center for AIDS victims’ in Summanhalli sums up the spirit infused in its inmates. Summanahalli has transformed itself into a social hub in Bangalore where different socially committed groups work for marginalized people under the umbrella of Sumanahalli Society. The 50 acre campus has an orphanage for girls (predominantly those with a leprosy background), a center for people suffering from HIV, a home for juvenile delinquents, a home for street children and a leprosy home. Set in a serene and soothing environment amidst lush greenery, the campus is equipped with infrastructure for rehabilitation of the affected.
In 1944, the Maharaja of Mysore is said to have gathered about 365 acres of land from farmers to set up a colony for beggars. This land was then utilized by the Central Relief Committee (CRC) operating under the aegis of the Department of Social Welfare to establish a shelter for rehabilitation of beggars. In 1977, Devaraj Urs, the then Chief Minister of Karnataka requested Dr. P. Arokiaswamy, the then archbishop of Bangalore to set up a leprosarium at Summanahalli. For about twenty years, the work of Summanahalli Society revolved around leprosy. Over the last decade, the services have been expanded to reach out to the homeless, the differently-abled, the ailing and the destitute.
People inflicted with diseases like leprosy and AIDS are often abandoned by their families due to the social stigma associated with their ailments. With nowhere to go and no one to look up to, their life and death matters to none. Heartrending stories of undying hope amidst pain and suffering pour out from all quarters. Among the many success stories that have emerged from the philanthropic work at Summahalli is that of a couple united by adversity. Vijay is visually impaired and Revathi has suffered severe burns. She was a social outcast and was forced to wear a burqa to conceal her distorted appearance. Both of them are employed at the garments factory where Vijay works on thread sucking machine and Revathi is in housekeeping. Together they are striving to make ends meet and have even moved out of their respective shelters to set up their family. Another inspiring story is that of Ranga who came to Summanahalli as a homeless child suffering from leprosy. Cured by the dreadful disease, he is now pursuing his studies in law and is also a budding artist and a talented dancer. About 500 people have managed to land government jobs. Community weddings are conducted at Summanahalli where some are between induviduals who are HIV positive.
Medical treatment combined with sessions in counseling, occupational therapy and vocational training has given a ray of hope to the downtrodden. The government recognized St Joseph’s School at Summanahalli educates about 200 under-privileged children, 60 of whom are directly or indirectly affected by leprosy.
Training in printing, book binding, carpentry, welding and tailoring have enabled school drop-outs to earn a living. Ahalli, the garments manufacturing unit at Summanahalli has provided employment for several people who are physically challenged. At the candle making unit, it was heartening to see colourful candles made by people suffering from AIDS and leprosy.The work begins with identifying the needy and continues as long as they require a support system. The infected are not only given treatment but also encouraged to grow in their own right. Their families are also looked after. Children of leprosy patients are highly susceptible to the infection and are kept away to prevent infection. The young ones go to school, the grown up are given vocational training, the elderly are looked after. Counseling and tips for prevention of contagious diseases are part of the awareness initiatives. Some people are placed in jobs outside while the others work at the campus.
Over the years the Summanahalli Society has developed its campus which includes a school, shelters and training centers in the fifty acres of land leased by the Government of Karnataka. However, dark clouds have been hovering over Summanahalli for the past few months. Bangalore City is constantly expanding and the government is now eyeing the land at Summanahalli which is estimated to be valued at 500 crores. The foundation of the social set up at Summahalli where the homeless and hopeless thrive has been shaken by the decision taken by the State Cabinet on July 7th 2009 in which they propose to reclaim the land. There has been stiff resistance from the Summanahalli Society supported by leading NGOs in Bangalore to prevent this land grab. “We have not gone to the city, the city has come to us”, says Fr. George Kananthanam, the Director of Summanahalli Society. Why should the sick and needy always be thrown outside the city? Aren’t they the ones who need to be within the city so that immediate medical assistance is accessible to them?

Quick Facts:
Summanahalli Society has won 11 National Awards and 7 State Awards including the prestigious Rajyotsava Award.

The Government of Karnataka leased 63 acres of land to Summanahalli Society for a period of 30 years starting from the 30th of December 1977. The campus of Summanahalli Society occupies 50 acres and 13 acres have been used for the construction of roads.

Over 700 people are making use of the campus and about 360 are residing in the campus.

Summanahalli Society is a non-profit organization and the land has never been used for commercial purposes over the past 30 years. The recent decision of the government to reclaim control for the land and use it for commercial activities violates the original purpose and intention of use of this property.

This article was published in Deccan Herald on the 29th of September 2009. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.deccanherald.com/content/27608/of-unity-adversity.html

A Bus on the Railroad...

2009-09-06T04:48:00.000-07:00

The old often makes way for the new. Vintage modes of transport are losing out to newer and faster means of conveyance. As the years roll on, it is inevitable that these timeless treasures make their way into museums and become chapters in history. Since the experience is elusive, some innovative inventions come to life only through stories of the past.
Railcars and railbuses feature among the unique carriers in the ranks of the Indian Railways. During a joyride that lasted for thirty-five minutes, I savoured sights and sounds aboard the only operational railbus in Karnataka. The railbus was on its routine daily round trip between Bangarpet and Kolar. Kids were quick to seize the seats on the first row which offer a good view of the track ahead. Youngsters were hanging by the poles at the door, sticking their heads out. I sat right behind the loco pilot to watch him effortlessly manouver the railbus. While some sneaked a short nap, it was time to read the newspaper for others. For me, it was an opportunity to watch the operation of the railbus from close quarters and to interact with the crew.

Chugging Along
The railbus offers a rare personal touch to its passengers. It has driving cabins at either end with two seats on one side and one seat on the other. During the journey from Bangarpet to Kolar, the assistant loco pilot Shashi found a place amidst the passengers in a coach that was packed to capacity. The wave of a hand made the loco pilot, Madhi halt for someone to get on as the railbus made its way out of the Kolar station. “It is a service in public interest and the railbus is a boon for around 65 government employees who travel from Bangalore to Kolar every day,” said a frequent commuter.
Bangarpet is a junction along the Bangalore-Chennai rail line. Passengers can board Chennai bound trains to reach Bangarpet and proceed to Kolar on the railbus. The departure of the railbus is linked to the arrival of the connecting train from Bangalore which makes it convenient for passengers. While a bus ride from Bangarpet to Kolar would cost Rs 10, the railbus fare is just Rs 3.
As the railbus pulled into the Kolar railway station, the rumble of the carriage ruffled the serenity of the quaint, colonial station. The loco pilot and assistant loco pilot, who were the last to disembark, obliged to be captured on my camera. After the riveting journey, I soaked in the rustic charm of the station, the operations of which are managed by just one person, the station master.

Stop and Go
A single rail line connects the Kolar and Bangarpet stations. In this section the “one train only token system” is used for controlling inbound and outbound rail traffic. The possession of a baton with the names of the two stations etched on it authorises a train to pass between them. One also gets to see the antiquated semaphore arm signal. When the semaphore arm is at a 180 degree angle, it indicates that the train should stop. When the arm is at a 90 degree angle, it implies that the signal is green and the train can pass through. A 45 degree inclination is a signal of caution.

Innovation Meets Simplicity
Innovative engineering, ease of maintenance and simple operation are some of the features of the Bangarpet-Kolar broad gauge (BG) railbus which was designed and developed indigenously by Bharat Earth Movers Limited (BEML). The four-wheeled single unit self-propelled diesel locomotive combines the simplicity of bus engineering with the comfort of a rail coach. Older models of railcars and railbuses had only one driving cabin and the locomotive was manually rotated on a turntable. This BG railbus manufactured in 1997 has a driving cabin at either end eliminating the need for a turntable.
Railbuses were in vogue a few decades ago but are now on the verge of being wiped out. Although railbuses are not profitable, they continue to function on certain routes for the benefit of the people. The number of round trips of the railbus between Bangarpet and Kolar has been reduced from three to two. How long will it be before Karnataka’s only operational railbus becomes an artifact in a museum?

Quick Facts:

The railbus operates on all days except Sundays.
It departs from Bangarpet at 9:40 am and 4:30 pm.
It departs from Kolar at 11:10 am and 5:15 pm.
The distance between Bangarpet and Kolar is 18 Kms.
The estimated journey time is 35 minutes.
The seating capacity is 72.

Connecting Trains
The Bangalore-Chennai, Chennai Express (2610) is the link to the railbus departing from Bangarpet at 9:40 am.
The Chennai-Bangalore Brindavan Express (2639) is the link for the railbus departing from Kolar at 11:10 am.
The Bangalore-Marikuppam Passenger (514) is the link for the railbus departing from Bangarpet at 4:30pm.
The Chennai-Bangalore, Bangalore Express (2609) is the link for the railbus departing from Kolar at 5:15 pm.

This article was published in Bangalore Mirror on the 6th of September 2009. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.bangaloremirror.com/article/81/2009090520090905213749390bd43405f/Railroad-Jaunt.html

Contours by the Sea

2009-09-06T03:58:00.000-07:00

The quaint town of Gokarna is situated at the confluence of the Aghanashini and Gangavalli rivers in the Uttara Kannada district of Karnataka. With a prolific history, Gokarna abounds with mythical tales. Also known as the “Kashi of South India” it is also a premier holiday destination. The famed Om Beach, the lesser-known Kudle Beach, the quiet Half Moon Beach and the pristine Paradise Beach are four scenic, popular strips of sand sandwiched between the hills. There are many temples in the town and Lord Shiva is the main deity in most of them.
Gokarna is a town of stark contrasts. At one end of the spectrum are local tribals and at the other end are numerous foreign tourists. While some tourists visit Gokarna to seek divine blessings, others are there to have fun on the beach.

Unspoilt
The crescent-shaped Kudle Beach is adjacent to the Gokarna Beach. Apart from a few shacks along the beach there is not much commercialisation. Tourists can stay at the sea-facing rooms or the beach-front shacks. The sun can be a bit harsh during the day but the heat is offset by the cool water and strong ocean breeze. As the sun ebbs into oblivion, its golden hues cast a spell over the shoreline. Sunset at the Kudle Beach is magical. After nightfall, one can enjoy gazing at the star-studded sky with the cadence of the waves in the backdrop. Kudle is a good choice for tourists who are looking to get away from the crowd. The beach is cut-off from the world outside with no mobile phone connectivity.

Tourist hub
Om Beach gets its name because of its shoreline which traces the sacred Hindu symbol. It is the largest of the four beaches and is the hub of tourist activities. Shacks and cafes line the beach. The colours, contours and contrasts are sure to strike the visitor to Om. The turquoise blue of the water stands out against the lush green flora. One can see vendors trying to sell a variety of paraphernalia to the tourists soaking in the sun. The commodities on sale range from freshly-cut fruits and colourful beads to musical instruments like drums and flutes. The beach gets crowded on holidays when people from neighbouring towns and villages come over to take a dip in the water. Restaurants on the beach offer a wide range of culinary delicacies of different cuisines. For the adventurous, Om Beach offers activities like banana boat rides, kayaking and wave rafting during the season when the sea is relatively calm.

Remote paradises
Half Moon and Paradise beaches are much smaller than Om and Kudle Beach. Although trekking is an option to reach these remote beaches, most people prefer to be ferried by a boat from Om Beach. For outdoor enthusiasts, these clean beaches are good camping sites. Food and accommodation options are limited to a couple of beach-side shacks. Tourists who want to hop from one beach to another can rent boats from Om Beach. Hiking to the beaches is a viable option in good weather.

The topography of Gokarna is unique. The shimmering water of the Arabian Sea, the lanky trees and the rocky cliffs seem to be in perfect harmony. The air brews a fragrance of freshness. The aerial views of the diverse landscape from the vista points in the hills are a sight to behold. From temple trails to the sun, sand and sea, Gokarna has something in it for people of all ages. With a unique blend of the ancient and the modern, Gokarna is a destination with a difference.

Quick facts

Getting There
Gokarna is about 470 km from Bangalore and is well connected by road to Bangalore, Mangalore and Goa.
Gokarna can be reached by train from Mangalore and Goa.
Dabolim in Goa is the nearest airport.

Season : The best time to visit Gokarna is between October and March.

Accommodation
Namaste Café is the most popular establishment on Om Beach. This resort has cottages, Internet connectivity and a beach-front restaurant.
Hotel Gokarna International on Kudle Beach has sea-facing rooms. Beach shacks provide accommodation at rates as low as Rs. 100/- per day for tourists on a shoe string budget. There are many restaurants on Om Beach and Kudle Beach.
Konkan style cottages were built on the slopes of a hill overlooking the valley. These cottages have now been converted into a resort. The Om Beach Resort is a joint venture by the government-owned Jungle Lodges and Resorts and the privately-run Kairali Group and provides comfortable accommodation and good facilities. Special tours to visit places in and around Gokarna are arranged on request.
For more information log on to www.ombeachresort.com

Others
According to the locals there are many wild peacocks in the hills of Gokarna. If you are on a trek in Gokarna look out for peacocks and peahens.
Sunscreen lotion, caps and umbrellas will be useful on a hot day. Carry a torch if you want to venture out at night.

This article was published in The Hindu on the 6th of September 2009. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.hindu.com/mag/2009/09/06/stories/2009090650360800.htm

The Hills Are Alive.....

2009-08-31T20:08:00.000-07:00

To the west of Kolar town is a barrier of rocks called “Shatha Shrunga Parvatha” or the mountain of hundred peaks. An interesting legend dating back to the Mahabharatha traces its origin. It is believed that the Pandavas lived in these hills and that Kunti was once chased by a lion while she was carrying her son Bhima. A panic stricken Kunti is said to have fled leaving Bhima on the hill which crumbled under his weight smearing the landscape with countless rocks.
Towering mosaics of precariously balancing boulders stand out against the backdrop of the blue sky. A well asphalted road snakes up the steep slopes. A flight of stairs etched in stone and small mantapas by the wayside are the first indications that these rocky hills are home to a hidden heritage. The terrain appears hostile but there are seven villages behind this façade of stone. It doesn’t take too long for one to realize that these hills are blossoming with life. Kuppahalli, Terahalli, Shivagange, Paparajanahalli, Kenchegowdanahalli and Hosahalli are some hamlets nestled in the hills. I was pleasantly surprised to know that beans, toor, ragi, avarekayi (a pod), maize, greens and tomato are grown in the arable stretches of the rocky terrain.
Biking through bends and curves of the hills I reached Terahalli. Accompanied by the kids of the village I headed to the 13th century Dravidian style Gangadhareshwara temple. The temple which was built during the reign of the Gangas has an impressive gateway and is resplendent with many stone structures and intricate sculptures. One can see the carvings of saptamatrikas (a group of seven Hindu goddesses depicted together) at the entrance of the temple complex. While the pillared mukha mantapa is still intact, the kalyana mantapa is in ruins. I was told by the locals that the age old custom of an annual jathre (fair) at the temple still continues.
My next destination was a cultural organization called Adima in Shivagange. Adima promotes art and culture, specially focusing on revival of traditional forms of art. The concept was envisioned in the 1980’s when a group of about twenty five likeminded people decided to save one rupee each day for the cause. They did so for several years, meeting regularly to discuss their plans for setting up a cultural hub that would reach out to people from modest social and economic backgrounds.
Their dreams and ideas were moulded into reality when Adima was established on a small stretch of land purchased with the money that had accumulated over the years. Under the aegis of writer and lyricist Kotiganahalli Ramaiah, Adima is taking giant strides into the world of art and culture. In less than four years since its inception the premises of Adima has a library, a rehersal room, two dormitories and an office room. Locally available materials like creepers, bamboo, mud and used tiles have been extensively utilized in the constructions architected by Padmalaya Nagaraj, one of the pioneers of Adima who is a teacher by profession. Adima is ornate with beautiful murals and sculptures by John Devaraj, Gopala Kammar, Padmalaya Nagaraj and Venkatesh.
Hunnime Haadu, Chukki Mela and Gaddige Gaurava are some initiatives undertaken at Adima. In Kannada, “Hunnime” means full moon day and “Haadu” means song. On every full moon night, an ensemble of music, dance and drama unfolds in a natural setting under the star studded sky. Chukki Mela is an annual summer camp that aims to tap the creativity of young minds. Children are engaged in activities like clay modeling, painting, acting, dance and music. The activity camp which spans for over twenty days concludes with an exhibition on Buddha Poornima. Gaddige Gaurava is an initiative to recognize people who have excelled in various spheres of life. The reward is not a monetary benefit but a token of appreciation to boost the confidence of people whose accomplishments may otherwise go without being noticed.
There is concerted effort to revive traditions in all forms at Adima. They aspire to rekindle folk arts like dollu kunita, yakshagana, kamsale kunita, kolata and somana kunita. The food served is also traditional. The simple but healthy menu includes rice, sambar, chutney and ragi balls.
Ramaiah, the president of Adima has the support of locals, well wishers and volunteers who are standing hand in hand to reclaim space for tradition in this era of rapid globalization. The rocks and boulders of these hills resonate with the sound of music.

Quick Facts:

Getting there:
Kolar is connected by road and rail to Bangalore. There is a motorable road to reach the village of Shivagange. Shata Shrunga Parvata is on the outskirts of Kolar. Buses ply between Kolar and Shivagange. KSRTC has a special bus service from the Kolar Bus Stand to Shivagange and back for the people visiting Adima for Hunnime Haadu.

Other attractions:
Antharagange which has a beautiful temple and perennial water source is a popular tourist attraction.

This article was published in The Deccan Herald on the 1st of September 2009. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.deccanherald.com/content/22578/in-shadow-rocks.html

On a Jumbo Trail

2009-08-09T04:51:00.000-07:00

The waters of the Tunga gleam as the sun rises to greater heights with every passing minute. Birds stoop trying to snatch an early morning catch from the gurgling river. The ringing of a bell breaks the silence of the surroundings. It heralds the arrival of the first elephant. Accompanied by their mahouts, 15 more elephants follow soon.
I was at the Sakrebayalu Elephant Camp which is home to sixteen elephants. Visitors to the camp can get a close look at the elephants and the enduring work of their dedicated mahouts. While some elephants born and bred at the camp, the others were sent there to curb their erratic behavior.
For most of the mahouts, the profession has been a family tradition. They have taken up this risky and challenging job after learning the ‘tricks of the trade’ from their ancestors.
A typical work day begins before the break of dawn and ends long after the sun sets. The routine does not change despite the scorching summer heat or the incessant monsoons. Each elephant is looked after by two mahouts who are on the job round the clock. The elephants are housed at the camp until midday after which they are left free in the forest. In the wee hours of the morning, the mahouts head out to the forest in search of their elephants. The dung, the trails of the elephants footprints, and the knowledge of their favourite spots in the forest provides clues for the mahouts to locate their elephants.
The entire operation involves walking for several kilometers in the rugged terrain each day, every day of the year. Among other things, the job demands physical fitness. Jalil, an experienced mahout narrated some of his experiences with the pachyderms. “Although we are Muslims, we don’t wear slippers because the elephant is a God of the Hindus”, he remarked, emphasizing the fact the mahouts walk bare foot in the forest. “We respect the elephant as our God too and pray to it every day”, he said referring to the custom where the elephant is taken to the house of the mahout and fed with freshly steamed rice every morning.

Between 8am and 9am every morning, the elephants are brought to the river for a wash. Once their thirst is satiated, the elephants lie down in the river ready for to be scrubbed and bathed by their respective mahouts. 11am is the time to treat the elephants with some goodies. They are initially fed with twigs and leaves, followed by hay bundled with a mixture of rice, chunks of coconut, jaggery and salt. A prescribed dose of vitamins and tonics are given for wellness. This is followed by a head massage with castor oil to keep their body cool in the hot summer months. It’s then time for another dip in the river to quench their thirst before they are taken back to their natural habitat. According to the mahouts, the elephants feast on the bamboo shoots growing abundantly in the neighbouring forest. The mahouts return home for lunch and then head back into the forest to oversee the activities of the elephants. The mahouts keep a stringent vigil on the elephants until nightfall to ensure that they do not wreck havoc in the neighbouring villages.
Each elephant has a specific schedule and is given an extensive training at the camp. In a unique language which is a concoction of Bengali and Urdu, the mahouts can make the elephants do a lot of things including greeting visitors, blessing them and walking with a bucket of water. The stunts like standing on two feet and hopping on three feet are astounding.
Elephants’ Day which is an initiative by the Wildlife Division of the Forest Department, is a unique annual event held in October. The elephants of the Sakrebayalu Camp are adorned with colourful embellishments and perform various feats. They vie with each other in races and play games of volleyball and football.
The verdant landscape of the Shimoga District makes it a popular tourist destination in Karnataka. It is resplendent with plush hills, picturesque valleys and splendid waterfalls. The Sakrebayalu Elephant Camp is one of the many attractions on offer to the visitors to Shimoga.
Set in a quaint village which is bereft of any commercialization, the camp is a refreshing change from usual tourist hotspots. The charming elephants, their friendly mahouts and the serene surroundings will make a visit to Sakrebayalu a memorable one.

Getting there:
If you are driving to Shimoga from Bangalore, drive along NH4 to towards Tumkur. Take the Tumkur bypass and follow SH 206 (Gubbi Road) to reach Shimoga via Tiptur and Arasikere.
Buses and trains ply between Shimoga and Bangalore. Sakrebayalu is about 12Kms from Shivamogga on the way to Tirthahalli. Auto rickshaws can be hired for a round trip from Shivamogga town.

Accommodation:
Shimoga town has accommodation to suit all pockets. There are many hotels near the bus stand. Hotel Jewel Rock is one of the better known hotels. With clean rooms, a good vegetarian restaurant and ample parking space it is a good choice for simple accommodation. The room tariff ranges from Rs 600/- to Rs 1000/-.

Other attractions:
At the Sakrebayalu Elephant Camp visitors can get an elephant ride at Rs 75/- per person. A boat ride in the Tunga River can be a good way to spot the many winged visitors.
The Gajanur Dam which is at a distance of about 2Kms from the camp is another tourist attraction. The Tavarekoppa Lion and Tiger Safari and the Shivappa Nayaka Palace are places of interest in Shimoga. The Mandegadde Bird Sanctuary is at a distance of 15Kms from the camp. Jog Falls is the most popular tourist spot in the Shimoga District.

This article was published in The Hindu on the 9th of August 2009. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.hindu.com/mag/2009/08/09/stories/2009080950330800.htm

Dancing to Nature's Tunes

2009-08-03T22:16:00.000-07:00

The sylvan Western Ghats, the vivacious Kali River and the undulating Arabian Sea are some of nature’s bountiful gifts to Karwar. “Karwar is certainly a fit place in which to realize that the beauty of nature is not a mirage of imagination, but reflects the joy of the infinite and thus draws us to lose ourselves into it”, said Rabindranath Tagore who was inspired by the blissful beauty of Karwar to pen the Bengali play Prakritir Pratishoota (Nature’s Revenge) .
Karwar was an important port for sea trade and has beckoned visitors for centuries. While the Arabs, Portuguese, French and Dutch frequented Karwar for trade, the present day tourists visit the place for its pristine beaches.
Karwar’s town beach, the Rabindranath Tagore Beach that is named after the great poet, emphasizes his bond with the town. The crescent shaped beach located in the heart of Karwar is popular haunt for locals and tourists. The district administration has made an effort to promote this beach in a bid to boost tourism. INS Chapal, a decommissioned missile boat of the Indian Navy is anchored on this beach. With torpedoes, shells and a missile on display, this is one of the three warship museums in India. Visitors can also take a joyride on a toy train that encircles the beach.The Mayura Musical Fountain which got a face-lift recently is another attraction for the visitors. The coordinated interplay of light, music and colours amidst jets of water creates a visual spectacle.
Devbag and Majali are two tranquil beaches in close proximity to Karwar. Devbag owes it’s popularly to a beach resort that has sprung up amidst a grove of Casurina (called “Gali Mara” in Kannada) trees. Located at the confluence of the River Kali and the Arabian Sea, Devbag is enveloped by water. Zebrafish, starfish, butterflyfish and bottlenose dolphins thrive in this habitat. The golden hue of the sand, the waves that toss and tumble against a backdrop of misty mountains and the refreshing azure colour of the water make Devbag’s landscape unique and spectacular. Dolphin sighting tours, snorkeling, parasailing, kayaking, banana boat rides and canoeing are some activities for the adventurous.
The Kali River flows into the Arabian Sea near Karwar. A bridge has been constructed over the river at the mouth of the sea. The drive across the bridge that links two land fragments Sadashivgad and Kodibag is spectacular. The Kali Bridge which is a part of NH17 (Mumbai-Cochin highway) is an icon of Karwar.
Sadashivgad is a small hillock on the outskirts of Karwar. Accordingly to historical records, Raja Basava Linga built the Sadashivgad Fort in the year 1715. The fort is said to have originally had 38 canons strategically positioned around it to shield the coast from invaders. Over the years, it changed hands several times and was under the control of the Portuguese and British. It is appalling that the fort has been destroyed and only a brick wall and a gateway remain today. A government guest house which has been converted to a resort has now taken the place of the fort. Few canons salvaged from destruction erected outside the Durga Devi Temple are reminiscent of the ancient fort. The Durga Devi Temple and the darga of Shah Karamuddin which are in same neighbourhood are important landmarks of Sadashivgad. The panoramic vistas of the bridge, the looming hills, the boat dotted estuary and surreal sunsets from the hill top are awe-inspiring.
Kurumgad, Maddlinggad, Devgad and Anjadeev are a few islands off the coast of Karwar. Kurumgad has a temple dedicated to Lord Narasimha. The five-storied lighthouse of Devgad (also known as Oyster Rock) was built by the British. Anjadeev Island which was ruled by the Portuguese until 1961 is currently off limits to the public as it is a part of the INS Kadamba (also called “Project Seabird”), an integrated strategic naval base of the Indian Navy.

The northern frontier of Karnataka’s enchanting coastline extends up to Karwar. It is the administrative headquarters of the Uttara Kannada district. Karwar has an eclectic mix of different landscapes, cultures, cuisines and climates. Fishery is the main industry of Karwar which is also famous for spices, cotton and muslin. Fish curry with rice is the staple food of the locals. Fisher folk belonging to the fishing communities like Ambig, Gabit and Kharvi have settled along the shore. Although Kannada is the state language, Konkani and Marathi are widely spoken in Karwar.
Karwar’s natural beauty is unsullied. Nature seems to have stroked its paint brush to splash colours of joy. Karwar is captivating and definitely worth a visit.

Quick Facts:

Getting there:

Dabolim in Goa is the nearest airport. Karwar is a two hour drive from Dabolim.
Karwar is connected by rail to Mumbai, Goa, Mangalore and Cochin through the Konkan Railway.
Overnight buses ply between Bangalore and Karwar which is at a distance of about 460 Kms.

Accommodation:

Devbag Beach Resort:

This resort is run by Jungle Lodges and Resorts (JLR), a venture of the Government of Karnataka. Log huts, fisherman huts and cottages at the resort are well-equipped and comfortable. Delicious Indian food prepared in authentic Konkan style is served in a open-to-sides gazebo. The resort has an ayurvedic spa run by Kairali Ayurvedic Group
For more information visit the JLR website : http://www.junglelodges.com/V2/Devbagh.htm

Estuary View Resort:

This resort is perched 1200 feet above the road on top of the hillock of Sadashivgad. From the resort one can see the vast expanse of the Arabian Sea, the estuary and the Kali River. The resort is a joint venture of JLR and The Kairali Group of Resorts, a private partner.
For more information visit their website: http://www.estuaryviewresort.com

Season:
The best time to visit Karwar is October through March.

This article was published in Deccan Herald on the 4th of August 2009. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.deccanherald.com/content/17594/beauty-bliss-karwar.html

Keladi, The Forgotten Frontier

2009-06-29T20:58:00.000-07:00

The Keladi dynasty germinated in the year 1499 at the fag end of the medieval period. The Keladi Nayakas emerged as a force to reckon with after the supremacy of the Vijayanagar Empire declined following the defeat in the Battle of Talikota in 1565. The Nayakas built a formidable kingdom which encompassed the Malnad region and parts of coastal Karnataka extending up to Kasargod in Kerala.
During the regime of the Nayakas, four capitals (all are in the present day Shivamogga district) were established. Keladi was the first capital and Chowdappa Nayaka their first chieftain. During the tenure of Sadashiva Nayaka, the capital was shifted to Ikkeri. Shivappa Nayaka, the most prominent Keladi Nayaka ascended the throne at Nagara (also known as Bidanur), the third capital. The valiant Rani Chennamaji was coronated at Kavaledurga, the fourth and final capital.
The Keladi Nayakas were able administrators and continued the legacy of the rulers of Vijayanagar. They patronized art and culture and built palaces, forts and temples some of which are still standing. The Shivappa Nayaka Palace in Shivamogga and meticulously sculpted temples at Keladi and Ikkeri sprung up in the golden era of the Nayakas.

Shivappa Nayaka Palace and Museum

The Shivappa Nayaka Palace is located amidst the busy streets of Shivamogga town. The liberal use of wood for the construction of the palace renders a rustic look to it. The open courtyard has octagonal wooden pillars and two flights of stairs. It is flanked by rooms on either side. The upper storey has two rooms and sixteen wooden pillars. It is said that the balcony of the palace was used to conduct durbars (court of a native ruler) when the king paid a visit to the town. Rajaram, the son of Maratha king Shivaji, is said to have taken refuge in this palace when he was attacked by Aurangzeb.
The Shivamogga district has an illustrious political lineage. It was ruled by the Shatavahanas, Kadambas, Chalukyas, Rashtrakutas, Hoysalas and Nayakas who were patrons of art. Artifacts collected from different parts of the district are exhibited in the sprawling lawns of the palace. Numerous artistic sculptures, ancient scriptures and relics that depict the rich cultural heritage and vibrant history of the region are displayed in chronological order. The 10th century sculpture of Mahishasura Mardhini, the 11th century idol of Uma Maheshwara and the more recent 17th century sculpture of Jade ( jade means braid in Kannada) Ganapathi are some awe-inspiring creations. The State Department of Archeology took over the maintenance of the palace in 1982. The palace was in a dilapidated condition and the effort of the department to restore it to its current state is commendable. This maintenance of the palace is immaculate and can serve as a model for restoration of such timeless treasures.

Ikkeri Aghoreshwara Temple
Aghoreshwara Temple in Ikkeri is one of the most impressive constructions of the Keladi Nayakas. The temple was built under the patronage of Dodda Sankanna Nayaka and has flavours of Dravidian and Hoysala styles in its architecture.
The original deity of the temple which had 32 hands is revered as an innovative creation. The idol was destroyed during the attack of Ranadulla Khan of Bijapur. Lamps and other damaged structures indicate that the idol was over 10 feet in height. Only the ornate pedestal on which the deity was placed remains now and a Shiva lingam has been erected on it. The outer walls and ceiling of the temple are adorned with intricate carvings. Beside the main temple, there is a shrine dedicated to Goddess Akilandeshwari. An imposing Nandi stands tall in the elaborately sculpted Nandi Mantapa, built on a 4 feet high plinth.

Keladi Temple
The interiors of the Keladi temple can surprise the visitor as it looks rather nondescript from outside. Popularly known as the Keladi Rameshwara Temple, the temple complex encloses a Parvati shrine, a Rameshwara shrine and a Veerabhadra shrine. According to a legend, Chowdappa Nayaka found a lingam buried in an anthill on which his cow was shedding its milk everyday. It is said that the Keladi temple was built around this sacred lingam
The architecture of the temple is unique and has influences of Kadamba, Hoysala and Dravidian styles. The roof and pillars of the Parvati Temple have intricate carvings on wood.
The stone sculpture of Ganda Berunda on the ceiling of the Veerabhadra Temple is exquisite. It is a depiction of a two-headed garuda (a mythical bird) holding lions with its beak and elephants with its claws. The ‘yali columns’ which are pillars depicting horses or lions with their fore paws raised are also seen here. There is a Nandi Dwajastamba (pillar) at the entrance of the Veerabhadra Temple. The tall pillar which has a Nandi on the top is said to have been erected during the reign of Rani Chennamaji.

Keladi Museum
Many ancient artifacts are carefully preserved in a museum in the vicinity of the Ramashwara Temple at Keladi. This rural museum serves as a repository of historic accounts and is a resource centre for research scholars and students. The museum has a collection of rare objects which include swords, combs, manuscripts, coins and brass idols. Paintings that exude creativity are preserved at the museum. An illustration of Queen Victoria and the countries colonized by the British in an exquisite work of art called "The Guardian Angel of the British Empire" is a masterpiece.

The Keladi Nayakas reigned supreme for over two centuries and have left a firm imprint in the Shivamogga district. The exemplary maintenance of many sites of immense historical importance is impressive. A trail to trace these structures that are reminiscent of the glory of the Keladi Empire is enriching.

This article was published in Deccan Herald on the 30st of June 2009. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.deccanherald.com/content/10752/keladi-forgotten-frontier.html

Coromandel Cruise

2009-06-21T05:31:00.000-07:00

Accompanied by my gracious hosts, I boarded a small fishing boat just a few meters from their house. A pot of water and several boxes filled with mouth-watering delicacies were loaded on the boat and we set out to explore the mangroves and lagoons of Muthupet.
Muthupet is a small town in the Thiruvarur district of Tamil Nadu. The Muthupet Mangroves are on the Coromandel Coast of India and extend from Adiramapattinam to Point Calimere. The term ‘Mangroves’, generally refers to the flora that grows in the saline coastal habitats of the tropics and sub-tropics. Locally known as Alaiyathi Kadu, these wetlands are positioned at the Southern end of the Kaveri delta. In Tamil, ‘alai’ means wave, ‘aathi’ means to stop or pacify and ‘kadu’ means forest. This is an apt name as mangroves act as a barrier and protect the land from the outbursts of the sea.
We started out on a narrow channel of water and traversed the path of the Kilathangiyar River as it flows into the sea. We cruised through the creeks flanked by the mangroves with many birds and schools of fish for company. The silence of the surroundings was briefly disturbed by the revving of the boat. As we approached, the birds flapped their wings vigourously and launched themselves skyward.
After an engaging half hour we approached a natural gateway formed by the mangroves. Our boat entered a shallow pocket of water where the Paminiyar, Korayar, Kilathangiyar, Marakakorayar and Valavanar tributaries of River Kaveri flow into an estuary. The fresh water from the rivulets amalgamates with the brackish water from the sea creating an environment in which a variety of crustaceans and molluscs thrive. Shrimps and prawns are plentiful. The abundant aquatic fauna in this region is the life-line for the locals and for the many migratory birds nesting in the mangroves. It was interesting to watch the fisher folk standing in waist deep water to net the catch for the day. A unique style of fishing indeed!
Our boat rocked harder as we were just a stone’s throw away from the sea. The sea reminds me of the cadence of the huge waves lashing their fury against the shoreline. This was a different setting. We were in the middle of the sea that was rather calm and there was no beach in sight. The vast expanse of water and the fading line of the horizon were intimidating. I sat glued to my seat. Awe-struck!
Many small islands have sprung up in this region due to the silt deposited by the flowing rivers. The plush green islands were a striking contrast against the somber backdrop. The earthly brown of the water, the refreshing blue of the sky, and soothing green of the mangroves blended well to create picture perfect vistas.
The islands with watch-towers were inviting and I was eager to set foot on them. We alighted at a couple of islands and climbed the precarious ladders to reach the top of the towers. The gusty wind was threatening to blow away everything in its path. I enjoyed the force of nature and stood gaping at the panoramic view of the world below. The water was constantly changing colour and it shimmered as the sun was beating down. It was spectacular to watch the transformation of the landscape as the sun and clouds seemed to be engaged in a game of hide-n-seek.
My trip to this clean, green and serene wonder of coastal India was enriching. We ventured into the sea on a small ill-equipped boat. Braving the strong wind, we anchored the boat to a ramp leading up to an island and feasted in the middle of nowhere. These are just a few of the myriad of new experiences on a fun-filled day in the mangroves.
The locals hop onto fishing boats and visit the mangroves for a day’s outing. Apart from the watch-towers which have been set up on some islands, there are almost no facilities for tourists. Most tourists are unaware of the existence of this picturesque location and the few who know about it are probably deterred by the lack of information and sub-standard facilities.
There are many tourist hotspots and popular pilgrim centers like Thanjavur, Nagore and Velankani in close proximity to Muthupet. Embark on the road to Muthupet if you like to discover the hidden treasures of nature. The journey might be arduous but the joys are plenty.

Quick Facts:

Getting there:
Tamil Nadu State Transport Corporation (TNSTC) operates buses from Chennai to Muthupet.
There are frequent buses to Muthupet from Thanjavur, Pattukotai, Mannargudi and Tiruvarur.
Trains and private buses ply between Bangalore and Thanjavur.
From Chennai you can drive along NH 45 to reach Muthupet (approximately 350Kms).
From Thanjavur, drive to Muthupet via Pattukotai (approximately 67Kms).
Muthupet is about 50Kms from Velankani and can be reached via Thiruthuraipoondi.

Once you reach Muthupet you can rent a fishing boat for the day from an area called ‘Pettai’.

Permission:
Ensure that the boatman has registered the boat with the forest department and has obtained permission to venture into the mangroves.

Others:
Carry packed food and beverages. Umbrellas, caps and sunscreen lotion will be useful on a sunny day

This article was published in Bangalore Mirror on the 21st of June 2009. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.bangaloremirror.com/index.aspx?page=article§id=81&contentid=2009062020090620203813229faaf05e3§xslt=

An Idyllic Weekend Getaway

2009-05-09T23:21:00.000-07:00

For miles on end, there was no sign of human inhabitation. A sparsely asphalted road tapered into a muddy track sprinkled with stones. Mobile phones went out of range. When I saw a rock with an arrow, a fish and “Galibore” etched on it, I was elated that my destination was just a few meters away! Tucked in the midst of a deciduous forest, on the banks of river Kaveri is the Galibore Fishing Camp. About 100Kms from Bangalore, this resort which flaunts its natural grandeur is an idyllic weekend getaway.
The main attraction at Galibore is angling (fishing) and the Mahaseer is the prized catch. The Mahaseer is a freshwater carp of the Cyprinid family and certain varieties could be over 5 feet long and weigh over 100 pounds! Hooking the Mahaseer is a challenge relished by fishing enthusiasts who come to Galibore from the world over. While tourists are quite happy with any variety of fish they manage to catch, seasoned anglers come prepared with tackles and other exclusive gear to hook the mighty Mahaseer. Since it is an endangered species, the Galibore Fishing Camp strictly adheres to ‘catch and release’ fishing policy. The fish are released into the water after clicking photographs and recording their weight.
Apart from joy fishing, the other interesting activities at Galibore include coracle rides, guided treks in the surrounding hills, rafting and kayaking in the river which cascades into level 2 and level 3 rapids. Sporting activities are organized by a team of enthusiastic and trained facilitators from ‘Outback Adventures’, a company which conducts adventure and outdoor sports activities.
There are twelve eco-friendly cottages which blend with the serenity of the camp. The tented cottages built on concrete platforms are rustic but comfortable. There are hammocks outside each tent for people who wish to laze around and infuse some freshness into their lungs. It’s the perfect setting for a siesta with the cool breeze caressing you. There is no electricity in the camp. While the kitchen is lit from batteries charged by solar power, old fashioned lanterns are the source of light in the other areas of the resort.
Delicious Indian food is served in a large open-to-sides gazebo beside the cottages. As the light fades away and the stars twinkle in the night sky, it’s time for the campfire and barbecue by the river side. At Galibore you can have a quiet moon light dinner with the rhapsody of a gushing river in the backdrop.
The tranquil ambiance, the soothing green cover of the hills and the exuberant river Kaveri makes Galibore a good retreat for conducting outdoor training programmes. The proximity of Galibore from Bangalore (and Mysore) makes it a good choice for the city dwellers to make a day trip to the camp. Visitors who want to enjoy an extended rendezvous with nature can spend a night or two there. In an attempt to hook the Mahaseer, anglers stay hooked to Galibore for several weeks. The coolness of the weather and the warmth of the resort staff and naturalists are sure to make your stay at Galibore a pleasant one.

From rafting and kayaking for those who would relish a rush of adrenaline, to nature walks and bird talks for the avian friends, Galibore has it all. If “doing nothing” is your idea of a good vacation then the hammocks under the canopy of the trees are most inviting.
If you are yearning to escape from the shackles of a busy work life, Galibore will mesmerize you with the bliss of being in nature’s company. As you travel away from the city, the din of the traffic will fade away. The sounds of nature amidst the sounds of silence will soothe your weary mind, body and soul. The freshness of the country air will rejuvenate your spirits. If you are in pursuit of a place to spend quality time with your family or friends, or just longing to getaway from Bangalore hit the road to Galibore. It is a road less traveled.

Quick Facts:
Getting there
Drive on the Bangalore-Kanakpura road for about 55Kms. On reaching Kanakapura, take a diversion towards Sangam (the confluence of the Arkavathi and Kaveri rivers). About 100m before Sangam there is a signpost which directs you towards Galibore. A 9Km stretch on a battered track leads you to Galibore.

Contact Information
Galibore is run by the Jungle Lodges and Resorts, a venture of Karnataka Tourism.
Phone Numbers: 91 - 80- 25597021/24/25
Website: www.junglelodges.com

Season
The Kaveri is well fed during the monsoon months from June to August. After the monsoons, the swollen river cascades into gentle rapids making it suitable for rafting. August to February is a good time to visit Galibore. The angling season at Galibore starts mid December and continues till March-April. The weather is pleasant through out the year.

Other Information
A torch is a must have. Odomos can be useful to keep the mosquitoes away. If you are on a day trip to Galibore, carry a set of clothes to change into after plunging into the river.

This article was published in The Deccan Herald on the 10th of May 2009. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.deccanherald.com/content/1628/galibores-fishy-secrets.html

Stories in Stone

2009-05-07T22:12:00.000-07:00

The remnants of the mighty fort stand aloft to depict tales of valour and defiance. The magnificent stone edifices are a mute testimony of an era bygone. Built immaculately, with convoluted alleys and mammoth stone walls, the Chitradurga Fort is an architectural marvel and a pride of Karnataka.
Chitradurga was initially called Chitrakaldurga because of the many uniquely shaped rocks strewn across the fort. In Kannada, ‘chitra’ means picture, ‘kallu’ means rock and ‘durga’ means fort. The fort is popularly known as ‘Yelu Suttina Kote’, as there are seven concentric fortifications around it. It is also called ‘Kallina Kote’ (fortress of stone) and ‘Ukkina Kote’ (fortress of steel) as it has survived the test of time.
Chitradurga was ruled by the Rashtrakutas, Chalukyas and Hoysalas. It was the headquarters of the Nayakas who were feudatory chieftains under the Vijayanagara Empire. After multiple attempts, Haider Ali finally conquered Chitradurga and it was later ruled by his successor Tipu Sultan until the British took over.

The sturdy walls of the fort have embrasures which were used by soldiers to place their weapons and launch an attack on the invaders. As you enter the fort, you will see the ‘Enne Kolas’ which are large cauldrons used to store oil. There is an elevated pillared structure called the ‘Bombe Mantapa’ in which the kings are said to have erected sculptures in memory of their favourite elephants and horses. In Kannada, ‘bombe’ means doll and ‘mantapa’ means pavilion. Much of it has been destroyed and all that remains now are a few damaged sculptures. There are two ponds called the ‘Akka Thangiyara Honda’ (sisters’ ponds). Folklore has it that these ponds got the name because two sisters who were married to the king Madakari Nayaka jumped into the ponds after his death.

On top of a hillock is the Hidimbeshwara Temple from which one can get a panoramic view of the hills, the windmills and the town. The Sampige Siddeshwara Temple is a cave temple which gets its name because of the fragrant Michaelia Champaka (known as sampige in Kannada) trees growing on the periphery the temple. The artistically sculpted Hidimbeshwara and Siddeshwara temples have towers resembling a ‘ratha’ or chariot and are called Hidimba Ratha and Bhimana Ratha respectively. The Phalguneshwara Temple, Gopalaswamy Temple and Uchcchangamma Temple are the other prominent temples in the fort.

There is an interesting trivia about two tall structures called the ‘Jokali Kamba’ and the ‘Deepada Kamba’ which are erected in front of the Ekanateshwari Temple. Goddess Ekanateshwari is the family deity of the Nayakas and during the Dasara festivities, it is said that the king would swing from the Jokali Kamba (‘jokali’ means swing and ‘kamba’ means pole) and light the lamps placed on the Deepada Kamba (‘deepa’ means lamp).
No account of Chitradurga will be complete without the mention of the heroics of Onake Obavva, the wife of a guard. According to a legend, Obavva came to ‘Tanniru Kola’ (a cold water spring) to fetch a pot of water while her husband was having lunch. She noticed Haider Ali’s troops trickling into the fort through a small opening in a cave. Not perturbed by what she saw, she picked up an ‘onake’ which a long wooden pestle used to pound grains and bludgeoned the soldiers as they tried to enter the fort. Her husband was shocked to see the bodies of the dead soldiers and the blood stained onake in her hand. Obavva, who was killed by one of the soldiers, remains immortal for her courage and presence of mind. The crevice was named ‘Obavvana Kindi’ in her memory.
Visitors to Chitradurga should look out for Jyothi Raj, a real-life Spiderman! It’s a spectacular sight to watch him climb the towering walls of the fort within seconds.
‘Kothi’ means monkey and Jyothi Raj calls himself Kothi Raj as he considers the monkey to be his guru. His daring stunts leave the spectators awe-struck.
On a clear day, the Hidimbeshwara Temple is a good spot to watch the sunset. The beautifully lit up fort is a spectacular sight at night. The hilly terrain, the precariously positioned boulders and the trekking trails in the fort will interest adventure lovers. Many stories woven around rocks and stones unravel the flambouyant history of Chitradurga. The clean, well-kept monument will be a pleasant surprise for the first time visitor.

Getting there:
The most convenient way of getting to Chitradurga is to drive on NH4 (Bangalore-Pune highway) via Tumkur. NH4 is a part of the ‘Golden Quadrilateral’ highway project. Windmills on either side of the road are the first signs of approaching Chitradurga.
Trains and buses ply between Bangalore and Chitradurga.

This article was published in The Deccan Herald on the 28th of April 2009. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.deccanherald.com/Content/Apr282009/spectrum20090427132727.asp

That they may have life... In all its fullness

2009-04-03T03:53:00.000-07:00

Hungry. Needy. Homeless. This is the state of the estimated sixty thousand children dwelling on the streets of Bangalore. While some are orphaned, others are a burden to their families. Many abandon their dysfunctional homes in pursuit of happiness. Employed in garages, dingy food joints and bars they are harassed, humiliated and exposed to the dark side of the city. Unable to bear the torture meted out by their employers they flee again. To pacify their hunger pangs they resort to begging, rag-picking and stealing. Indulgence in cigarettes, drugs and alcohol is common. Many are addicted to inhaling strongly odorous substances (erase-ex, turpentine, kerosene etc) called ‘solution’.
Bangalore Oniyavara Seva Coota better known as BOSCO is a Non-Governmental Organization (NGO) that reaches out to the young at risk. BOSCO draws inspiration from St. John Bosco (also known as Don Bosco) who dedicated his life to the service of underprivileged youth. Food, accommodation, life-skills training and education are provided to empower marginalized youngsters to mend their shattered lives. BOSCO collaborates with other NGOs and the Government of Karnataka to address issues like child labour and child abuse.

Inception
BOSCO, a home for street children in Bangalore was the pioneering effort of four students of Theology of Kristu Jyothi College. They ventured into crowded localities like Chickpet, City Market and Majestic to get a first hand account of street life and its hazards. The concept of providing a roof for homeless boys became a reality when one of them, Fr. George Kolashany sheltered a few who were living on the streets. This social endeavour has come a long way since its modest beginning in the early 1980s. BOSCO now has a set up of seven city centers in Bangalore and one village center at Ajjanahalli.

Finding a home
BOSCO has set up Child Rescue Booths at the City Railway Station, Majestic Bus Stand and Kalasipalayam Bus Stand which are the primary entry points for those who flee from their homes. After the preliminary screening at BOSCO’s administrative office at Gandhi Nagar, boys under the age of fifteen are sent to Bosco Mane in Chamarajpet while those above fifteen are sent to Bosco Yuvakendra, near Magadi Road. It takes anything from a few hours to months to comfort these boys and coax them to reveal their true identities. Factors like age, educational background, personal interests, physical and psychological health determine the centre that would be home to each boy admitted to BOSCO. While keeping its doors open for those who need a shelter, BOSCO leaves no stone unturned in placing them back in their homes. Once re-united with their families, the boys are followed up for a year to ensure their well-being.

Centers of Learning
At Bosco Vikas, the school-going children are made to adhere to a strict schedule which includes prayer, exercise, studies and sports. The older boys stay at Bosco Yuvakendra and Bosco Summanahalli. While some pursue higher education others undergo vocational training. Vocational training is a life-line for the boys who have not undergone formal education. The boys are trained in welding, tailoring, book-binding, screen-printing, carpentry and two-wheeler mechanics. They are also provided the opportunity to explore new avenues in fields like Hotel Management and four-wheeler driving. After the successful completion of their training at BOSCO, the boys are helped to find a suitable job. School drop-outs are encouraged to utilize their free time to prepare for the Karnataka Open School (KOS) examinations.
BOSCO has setup a rehabilitation center at Ajjanahalli, a quaint hamlet in the Magadi taluk of Karnataka. Located in the lap of nature, Ajjanahalli provides a conducive environment for street boys to bounce back to life. New boys at Ajjanahalli are coached and prepared before being admitted to school in the subsequent academic year. The boys study at the local village school. BOSCO in collaboration with other NGOs has eradicated child labour in the Magadi taluk.
The boys are encouraged to participate in extra-curricular activities and are provided several opportunities to exhibit their talents. Music and dance are a part of all celebrations at BOSCO. Sessions in yoga, personality development and life-skills are conducted to enhance their all-round development. Carom or cricket, foosball or football, the boys are always game for a game. Some are even coached in karate, cricket and swimming. Be it watching on television or playing, sports tops the list of their pastime options.

Open-Shelters
The lanes around prominent markets in the city are flocked with young children who do menial jobs like scavenging through discarded waste to earn one meal a day. Youngsters who take to begging and rag-picking live on the streets by day and night. BOSCO’s open-shelters provide a place for such people to rest and relax. Bosco Nilaya is an open-shelter in the City Market area and Bosco Nivas is a one such shelter in the Shivajinagar area. Counseling, rehabilitation and de-addiction programmes are some initiatives undertaken by the BOSCO team for the boys who frequent these centers.

Volunteers and Support Groups
BOSCO has had the support of benevolent volunteers who are willing to share and care for these less fortunate children. Students, professionals and trainees from religious orders offer their services at BOSCO. The volunteers from Professionals for Young at Risk (PYAR) lend their professional expertise to the initiatives undertaken by BOSCO. Service-minded youngsters, who constitute the Youth for Youth (Y4Y) group, dedicate considerable amount of their time. BOSCO connects with foreigners who are interested to volunteer in India through its outreach programme. International volunteers reside at the BOSCO premises and tend to the needs of the boys.

The Road Ahead…
While many success stories have blossomed from BOSCO, there are stiff challenges in the road ahead. Most boys have had a traumatic past and tend to escape rather than confront a difficult situation. It’s tough to keep them focused on the job at hand. Preventing them from going back to the streets is a daunting task. Sufficient funds have to be raised to meet the needs of the ever increasing number of children taking to the streets each day.
The BOSCO team strives hard to pave the path for a brighter tomorrow for these children who have been denied the cushion of love and the joys of life. BOSCO welcomes anyone who wishes to be a part their mission to provide a shelter and a bright future for these children, so that they may have life, in all its fullness.

For more information about BOSCO, you can log on to the BOSCO website www.boscoban.org , send an e-mail to bosco@bgl.vsnl.net.in or call 080-65370112, 080-22253392.

This article was published in The Deccan Herald on the 31st of March 2009. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.deccanherald.com/Content/Mar312009/spectrum20090330127074.asp

The Cable Cars.... Of San Francisco

2009-01-11T03:24:00.000-08:00

When you think of gondolas, you think of Venice. When you think of cable propelled cars…You should think of San Francisco as it was the first city to roll out the cable car in 1873.
Today, it is the only city where the cable cars are operated in the traditional manner. While “the way to see London is from the top of a bus” (a quote by former British Prime Minister, William Gladstone), the way to see San Francisco is by standing on the periphery of a cable car!

I decided to take a cable car ride on an unusually bright and sunny day in San Francisco. One of the cable car lines terminates at the intersection of the Powell and Market Streets, in the downtown area of San Francisco. I headed to Market Street which is a good place to board the cable car as you can get to choose your seat if you wish to be seated or a pole if you prefer standing through your ride. There was a sizable crowd even in the wee hours of the morning. Holding onto my Muni Passport (a day ticket to ride the public transport in San Francisco), I joined the people queuing up to catch a cable car ride.

Every few minutes, a cable car would come down the hill and stop for passengers to alight. Surrounded by tourists, their cameras and curious onlookers, each cable car was manually rotated on a wooden turn-table. Once a new group of passengers hopped on, the cable car was all set to embark on yet another journey along the streets of a city bustling with activity. The sequence of events was unique and engaging that it kept me occupied for the one hour that I spent waiting for my turn to board the cable car.

I rushed to get the first pole at the front end of the cable car. This is a spot from where one can get the best view of the road ahead. Standing by a pole, hanging on the edge, I got a bird’s eye view of the city. A ride on the cable car from Market Street to Fisherman’s Wharf (a water front tourist destination) takes you through some of the most pristine and elite localities of the city. You could alight at Lombard Street and walk down the “Crooked Street”, the crookedest street in the world. The view of the San Francisco Bay and the Alcatraz Island (a military fortification and prison and now an important tourist destination) as the cable car descends the hill is spectacular. At the end of the fascinating ride, I concluded that there is probably no better way to explore the city of San Francisco!

The cable car was the brainchild of Andrew Smith Hallidie who migrated from England to America, during the California Gold Rush (the period between 1848 and 1855 when gold was discovered in Coloma, California). On a drizzly day in San Francisco, Hallidie witnessed an accident in which a street car pulled by horses, slipped and slid down the hill, dragging the horses to their death. Horrified by what he saw, he began working on a mechanism in which the wire rope or cable would be used to pull the street cars along the steep hills. This was the beginning of the tale of the cable cars of San Francisco.

Cable cars work by cable traction. A sturdy cable runs in a slot beneath the surface of the street from the central power plant along the entire route. This robust set up consists of an intricate system of pulleys, bars and sheaves which drives the cable at a constant speed of 9.5mph. Each car is equipped with a vice-like device called the grip. Operated by experienced grip men, the speed and motion of the cable car is controlled by engaging and disengaging the grip from the cable. These cars which ascended and descended the steep hills at a constant speed were a runaway success. Several railroad companies championed the cause of the cable cars and powerhouses were built to generate power to propel the cables.

All was well until the electric street cars hit the road in the fag end of the 19th century. In 1906, the great earthquake destroyed the powerhouses and cable car barns. The huge loss of infrastructure accelerated the downslide of the cable cars. In 1947, Mayor Roger Lapham cited high cost of maintenance and safety concerns as reasons for pulling the plug on the cable cars.

In a fight led by Friedel Klussmann, a group of people who were passionate about San Francisco came together to form the “Citizens Committee to Save the Cable Cars”. They forced the government to pass a resolution that the citizens would vote on the fate of the cable cars. The result of Measure 10 on the ballot (whether the cable cars should stay on the streets of San Francisco) was heavily in favor of continuing operation of the cable cars.

Currently Powell-Mason, Powell-Hyde and California Street cable car lines are operational. The fleet of cable cars which is owned and maintained by the San Francisco Municipal Railway or Muni has single-ended Powell street cars and double-ended California street cars in its ranks. The Powell street cars are rotated on a turn-table which is an added attraction for tourists. The double ended California type cars have control levers at each end thus eliminating the need for a turn table.

The cable car barn and powerhouse at the intersection of the Washington and Mason streets has been converted into a museum. A visit to the museum unravels the prolific history of this mobile National Historic Landmark (a building, site or object recognized for its historical significance by the government of the United States of America). Videos, photographs and antique cable cars are on display at the museum which was established in 1974. Postcards and souvenirs are on sale of those who want to take home a keepsake of this pride of San Francisco.
In the age of automated systems, especially in the United States, the cable car is a welcome aberration. In my opinion, a ride on the cable car tops the list of things to do in San Francisco. Definitely not a tourist trap, it's a ride like no other in a city like none other!

Quick Facts:
Getting there: If you are driving down, take exit 434B from freeway 101 which directly leads to Market Street.
Market Street is well connected by public transport to different parts of San Francisco.
Tariff: While a one time ride on the cable car costs $5, the Muni Passport which entitles you to unlimited rides on a single day costs $11.
Cable Car Museum: Open to public on all days except Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Years Day. Admission is free.
Timings: April 1st through September 31st - 10AM to 6PM
October 1st through March 31st - 10AM to 5PM
Getting to the Museum: The Powell-Mason and Powell-Hyde cars stop at the Museum. The California Street cars stop at Mason Street, which is two blocks away.

This article was published in The Deccan Herald on the 11th of January 2009. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.deccanherald.com/content/Jan112009/sundayherald20090110111748.asp

The Face Of Terror

2008-12-22T19:48:00.000-08:00

15th August, 1947. On this day, India broke away from the clutches of the British and marched into the alley of freedom. It was the day that the struggle of a nation ended. Today, sixty one years later, India is fighting for freedom from the clutches of fear. Freedom from the grip of terror. Freedom to choose between life and death.
The terrorist attacks at Mumbai, Delhi, Bangalore, Ahmedabad, Jaipur, Hyderabad and Assam are still fresh in my memory. It is appalling that a nation that walked the path of ahimsa (non-violence) to its freedom is now soaking in a bloodbath. What is the motive behind these strikes? Is it an eye for an eye?

In the recent past, a spate of bomb blasts has rocked our country. Families from different faiths, religions and geographies lost their loved ones and bread winners. Innocent lives were snatched away. The blame game was on. Fingers were pointed at the members of a communal minority. These mindless acts of violence of a few have tarnished the reputation of the entire community. The possibility of the hand of Hindu extremists in terrorist attacks hit the headlines a few weeks ago. This sent shockwaves across the country. Religious leaders were accused of fuelling acts of terror. Are religious fundamentalists abetting terrorism? Does terrorism have a religion?

Some under-trials in the recent terrorist attacks are said to have strong connections with the high and mighty. It is probably not possible to carry out attacks on such a large scale without the cushion of power and money. The water is murky and the network is large. A war of words has followed the war of weapons. It appears that the politicians are trying to gain some political mileage ahead of the elections. Are government officials, who hold top posts wielding their power for unparlimentary and ruthless actions? Are seats of power being abused?

An unforeseen circumstance or a grave incident could have led people who were otherwise leading peaceful lives to resort to acts of violence. A study reveals that youth under emotional stress are prone to become violent. Some youngsters from affluent families are also embracing terrorism. The advancement of technology has empowered the masterminds of these attacks. Highly qualified professionals could be utilizing the wealth of their knowledge to execute their well calibrated plans. What drives them to commit such unpardonable crimes? What is the reason for such irrational steadfastness?

A series of blasts at different locations within minutes of each other has been a pattern in most of the recent terror strikes. I read an article about a good samaritan who offered a helping hand to the bomb blast victims. While shifting the injured to the hospital he was killed in another bomb blast outside the hospital. Should the man on the street turn a blind eye to a person gasping for breath or should he offer aid at risk of his life?

Patriotic fervor peaks during Independence Day and people are out on the streets to celebrate. In Bangalore, M G Road is the hub of most celebrations and I was there trying to capture the action on my camera. Last year, the locals had turned out in large numbers and a plethora of tricolors were flying high. Expecting the same this year too, I promptly ventured out on M G Road and was in for a rude surprise. The usually crowded roads were almost deserted. Tricolors were minimal. Celebrations were tepid. The fear of terror could have dampened the spirits of enthusiastic Bangaloreans who seemed to have been shaken by the eight blasts which rocked the city just a few days before. Terrorists have been targeting crowded places and the fear of a possible attack might have kept people tucked in the safety of their homes. Our freedom fighters had big dreams for the country and they sacrificed their lives in the struggle to make these dreams come true. Are the leaders of today doing enough to uphold the vision of their predecessors?

What is the role of the “Common Man” in this fight against terror?

These questions and more are ringing in my head. I seek to find answers. But, I have none.

To strive, to seek, to find and not to yield….
- Alfred Lord Tennyson

I hope that the police force, investigators and leaders of our country strive to identify the culprits, seek to decipher the missing pieces of this puzzle, find the cause for these blatant attacks and never yield in the effort to make India a safe haven where peace and communal harmony prevails….

A Temple Town

2008-12-22T19:27:00.000-08:00

In the Udupi district of Karnataka, on the banks of the river Sita, is a quaint town called Barkur. A hub for trade and commerce, Barkur was established as the capital by the Alupas who reigned in provinces of coastal Karnataka. Art and culture flourished under the patronage of the rulers of the Alupa, Hoysala and Vijayanagar dynasties. Barkur was under the rule of the Vijayanagara kings until the 17th century. In the 18th century it was conquered by Haider Ali and was ruled by his successor, Tippu Sultan until he was defeated by the British. It was then attached to the Madras Presidency and was later reverted to the state of Mysore, the present day Karnataka. As the reigns of the kingdom changed hands, many of the monuments in Barkur were plundered and ruined. Most of what remains now are structures constructed between the 13th and 16th centuries.

Temples and keres are a common sight at Barkur. A “kere” is large stepped water tank in the vicinity of the temple. In the olden days, it was customary for people to take a holy dip in the kere before entering the temple. It is believed that there were 365 temples in this small town and that the king visited one temple each day of the year. The king’s visit to the temple was marked by an utsav (festival).

Majority of the temples at Barkur are dedicated to Lord Shiva. A mutilated lingam can be seen even in a basadi (a Jain temple). Although, temples are strewn all over the town, the one which caught my attention was the Chowlikeri Temple. The entire temple including the walls and ceiling is hewn out of stone. Aesthetic pillars etched out of stone surround this mammoth structure. Unlike most temples in South India, the temples in this region do not have a gopuram (an intricately carved dome at the entrance of the temple). The Panchalingeshwara temple is the largest temple at Barkur.

Another interesting monument worth a visit is the Kathale (darkness) Basadi. The 24 dents in stone are the only evidence of the existence of the statues of 24 Tirthankaras (Jain monks who achieved enlightenment through asceticism). Prior to my visit, I had heard a lot about the Barkur fort which is said to have been built during the Vijayanagara rule by King Hariyappa in the year 1336. This fort was excavated a few years ago and archeologists are trying to reconstruct some pieces of history from the remnants of this mighty fort. Although I did not have high expectations, the least that I expected was to see some kind of a structure. To my utter disappointment, I saw a vast stretch of land and a waterless moat. In fact, I heard from my guide that the stones which were stolen from the fort were actually being used to wash clothes!

The temples here portray unique idols and creations and the locals often narrate interesting stories woven around these ancient artifacts. Among the many stories I heard, the one that was particularly interesting was the custom of Aliya Santana (nephew lineage) which is believed to have originated here. The demon Kundodara Bhoota wanted the ruler Deva Pandya to sacrifice one of his sons for the safety of a fleet of newly built ships which were carrying some important cargo. When the queen did not give her consent to this, the king's sister, Satyavati came forward to sacrifice her son, Jaya Pandya. The demon was impressed with this benevolent gesture and let go of the brave young man and gave him the title “Bhutala Pandya”. The king also made his nephew the heir to his throne. This is believed to have been the origin of the matrilineal custom of Aliya Santana which is practiced even to this day by some Bunts and Jains of this region.

In recent times, the process of renovation and restoration of the temples has drastically changed their façade and interiors. The air of modernization has not changed the essence of the design and architecture of the houses here. The architectural style is traditional and most houses bear a rustic look. The houses have sloping tiled roofs and are tucked in pockets between large trees. These are well ventilated structures and there is seldom the need to use a fan even in the hot summer months. Hibiscus shrubs in a wide variety of colours, shapes and sizes can be found in the front yard of almost all the houses. The households in the village are self-sufficient. Alternate sources of energy are used to supplement the power requirements. Cattle are reared for milk. Gobar gas is used for cooking. Solar power drives electrical appliances.

Fruits and vegetables are grown in the backyard. LPG and electricity are used sparingly. I noticed that the people were very judicious in the use of water. It was a heartening to see the conscious effort to be eco-friendly.

A visit to Barkur takes you on a walk along the corridor of the monumental history of a small town.

Getting there - The town of Barkur has a railway station and is on the Mangalore-Mumbai route. Udupi is well connected by buses to Bangalore and Mangalore. Udupi is about 400 Kms from Bangalore and about 60 Kms from Mangalore. Barkur is at a distance of about 16 Km from Udupi and can be reached by bus. If you are driving down to Barkur, take a deviation at Brahmavara. Barkur is about 3Km from Brahmavara.

Accommodation – There are many hotels and good South Indian restaurants at Udupi to suit all pockets.

This article was pulished in The Deccan Herald on the 26th of October 2008. Below is the link to the online version of the article.
http://www.deccanherald.com/content/Oct262008/sundayherald2008102597198.asp